Fingerlock 5.10a/b
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006 |
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Description Climb the finger crack with the oak growing next to it.
Protection Pro to 2".
By Aerili From: Salt Lake City, UT Feb 9, 2010 rating: 5.10b/c
| It is amazing indeed that somehow, randomly by nature, a route like this can form: a series of widenings in the crack that take sinker finger-locks just one after the other--up the entire line to the top! How can such perfect climbing randomness exist?? The route itself is super fun and much longer than it looks from the ground. Definitely worth stopping for! |
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Feb 12, 2010 rating: 5.10b
| Definitely worth a stop! Make that Move is worth a go too, fun roof and sweet arete up high. Man, I thought this thing was tough at .10b, now I see the Bloot is calling it .10a? That blitzo's a sandbagger, draggin it down! |
By Aerili From: Salt Lake City, UT Feb 17, 2010 rating: 5.10b/c
| The partner I was with the day I climbed this told me the start has two ratings, depending on which way you do it: if you work the tree to help get over the bulge, it is 10b. If you don't use the tree to get over the bulge, it is 10d. Even using the tree, the bulge move is kinda tricky and weird with the weight transition! I figured my partner was giving me the straight dope as he is a 30-year climbing veteran of the area! |
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Feb 18, 2010 rating: 5.10b
| I would say it is stout .10b with the tree. Pulling out of the tree is tricky, and there is a move at the top which is no gimme. I have not tried the bottom w/o the tree, but a friend TRd it clean and said it 'felt 5.11' .10d sounds like a 'bag, and I think cruxy just avoiding the tree as you move up. Also, there was a pretty good shot of this route from above in climbing mag a couple seasons ago, inspired me to get out and do it. |
By Aerili From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 2, 2010 rating: 5.10b/c
| Climbed it again yesterday: hell is freezing over, dude....I think I agree with you. I also think there are at least 3 shades of "bouldery" that can be applied to the start, all in ascending order of burliness. |
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Mar 3, 2010 rating: 5.10b
| Believe me, it is exhausting being right all the time. |
By Aerili From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 9, 2010 rating: 5.10b/c
| Then again, it could be that your continual exhaustion makes you weak and therefore you think things are harder than they really are. I don't know what my excuse is, though. |
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Mar 11, 2010 rating: 5.10b
| Fighting grade creep is hard work, it's true. |
By W. Spaller From: Estes Park Mar 27, 2010
| I felt that heel-toeing between the tree and the rock was the most effective method for using the tree since the tree is slippery. Stellar crack and great location as it breaks the hike up into 2 parts. |
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