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Do the easy (3rd and 4th class) first two pitches of Fingertip Traverse. From the large, brushy ledge system, climb the large, left-facing corner directly to the right of the Fingertip Traverse lieback. This 130’ long pitch involves some face moves and liebacks, with good rests between the hard moves. Above the crux, the dihedral arches to the left, with easy but insecure traversing on low angle rock. A 4th class pitch leads to Lunch Ledge.
|By Dave Daly|
From: Temecula, CA
May 21, 2012
As with Guideline #1, I'm not posting this to be a jerk. Consider it essential beta for the route (no offense, page author)....
The first pitch of Fingertip Traverse DOES reach Jungle Ledge in one single pitch (175'). Set the belay near the base of the next pitch for 'Fingergrip' (don't move all the way right on Jungle Ledge or you'll find yourself climbing 'El Camino Real' .10a!). 'Fingergrip' can be done in a full pitch (200'). This gives you 10' of rope remaining when you reach the oak trees, just slightly below Lunch Ledge (which joins with the upper pitches of 'Fingertrip'). Make sure you place slings on pro placements for this pitch or you'll have a bit of rope drag. Also, take care to place gear for the follower when traversing the arch in the last 35' to the trees. Move the belay to Lunch Ledge (20' up and left by simuling). From Lunch Ledge, essentially head straight up steep ledges to the finishing slab above (lone single bolt protects the last 50').