Described as "classic Organ's friction" this climb definitely delivers. It has been re-bolted in recent years making it safer although still a bold lead. Don't expect edges larger than 1/8" for most of the climb. Start by climbing 12' to gain a narrow ledge. traverse right about 20' and clip the first bolt nearly 35' off the deck. While this may seem daunting, the traverse is easy 5th class. From here, enjoy razor edges and thin friction the whole way up. Moving into a shallow corner system to the right of the 3rd bolt may lessen the grade.
Located on the north facing western slab of The Citadel. This slab is best reached by bushwhacking up from Rabbit Ear canyon near where a side canyon splits off to the South (which heads up the south side of The Citadel.
5 bolts. In actuality, the 1st, 3rd and 5th bolts are actually pairs of bolts. These spots have the old 1/4" bolt next to a newer 3/8" bolt. The initial "run-out" is not much to fear for a confident leader, but should be approached with caution. Small wires/camming units may be useful near the top-out.
A 3 bolt anchor is tucked away at the top of the shallow corner system, and is not immediately apparent if you top out to the left. a two rope rappel or 200ft rope is required.
|By Aaron Hobson|
From: Las Cruces, NM
May 8, 2006
Getting from this area to the NE face (Glad We Came area) is not an easy bushwhack. However, this area has relatively easy access to climbs on the North and SW face.
|By P Seibert|
Nov 19, 2009
Glen Banks was the one who saw this line first. Glen and I needed two tries to finish this face. We used 1/4" compression bolts at that time. To dill the holes we used a hand held rawl drive and a hammer. Drilling into granite would take about a half-hour. After each bolt we would switched leader as hands would be tired and numb from drilling.
From: Silver City, NM
Dec 31, 2009
P Seibert that must have been quite heady. I top roped the route after climbing Murray's Crack and I nearly pooped my pants. Definately, this climb isn't a lead for someone who is not a completely compentent 5.10 climber and comfortable on scary thin slightly less than vertical runout routes (basically 3 or 4 bolts for 90'!). But to those that are worthy of Organ Mountain friction (I am not) this is a truly classic climb. Much thanks to Organ Mountain pioneers of phenominal routes that are scary as hell :)
|By Paul Drakos|
Jul 25, 2010
I have led this route a couple of times (with enough time elapsed between ascents for the thin climbing a good distance above bolts to fade from memory). Excellent climbing. The initial mantle to the travers can be protected with a small cam; however you will still be soloing the low-5th class section before reaching the first bolt.
A linkup with the West Ridge can make this more of a full value Organ Mtns outing, although with a large drop off in difficulty after the first pitch.
|By Jorge Achata|
From: Lima, Peru
Aug 7, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13
Jim Graham put a new 1/2 inch bolt at the anchors of this climb last weekend. There were two 1/4 inch bolts and a much newer 3/8. It's nice and safe now, and pulling ropes trough them was a breeze after that. Thanks Jim!