Finger Rock (Standard Route) 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Herb and Jan Conn, late 1940's (probable) |
| Submitted By: | James DeRoussel on Nov 30, 2003 |
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At the top of The Finger. The chains are 8 feet f...
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Description If your legs and brain are still responsive after the hike up to Finger Rock, you might as well climb it. After all that hard work, it'd be a waste not to, right? The technical route up Finger Rock begins in the western saddle between Prominent Point and Finger Rock itself. The climbing starts up the north-northeast face of the Finger, immediately above the trail's end: Climb up easily protected flake, past small bulge and cracks, to a ledge with two small trees (~50'). From ledge, continue up easy terrain, past a bolted 5.8 crux to two-bolt rappel station (~30'). The teetering summit block is another ten feet above the bolts. A single 60m rope will allow for a rap to the ground. Extreme exposure and scary, shifting rock will likely make your summit experience a short one. But hey, at least your legs and nerves are trashed for the brutal, three hour downhill slog that lies ahead! Happy trails!
Protection A few medium sized cams (0.5-1.0 camalots) and a set of nuts.
Jon Ruland leading P1 on the Finger.
| fisheye foto from finger-tip, featuring flat stanl...
| Jefe surfs the board on the summit - May 2010
| BETA PHOTO: Finger Rock (From Finger Rock Trail)
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| Comments on Finger Rock (Standard Route) |
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By eMurdock From: Tucson, Arizona Jun 5, 2004
| For a much longer route to the top of Finger Rock, you can start down and left of the standard route. Climb a long pitch or two up easy rock passing some relic pitons after a chimney section (hard to find). Walk across a thin rock rib to join the standard route at the top of the first pitch at the tree. This is a more adventurous, less direct, and scrappier route. |
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Apr 7, 2008
| WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO FOUR FREAKIN STARS BABY!!!!!!!!!1111111111111111ONEONEONEONEONE |
By tbrain Apr 7, 2008
| This climb made for a great day with a very climactic topout. A few things we learned that were different than what we'd read prior to our ascent: Three hours approach time is underrated even for fit parties and beautiful weather. There may have been some established trails at the terminal section of the approach in the past, but we did not find them. The hillside to the base of the Finger has degenerated into a torn-up weave of false trails, washes, and rockfall. The climb of the Finger, itself, can be done in two pitches (or one) with two well-established belay stations. There is a camouflaged register near the chains (before the final couple moves the very top.) The last stretch to the "skateboard" above the chains is not as precarious as previously described. Overall this made for an amazing day with friends and the rewards were well worth the effort. |
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Apr 14, 2008
| for people who aren't crazy i would recommend half a rack, 10 slings, and a couple lockers to establish an anchor on the ledge with the trees. also, this climb made me happy where i pee. |
By Trevor Bowman From: Sheridan, WY Feb 3, 2009
| For anyone comfortable with solo alpine-ish rambles, this makes a great training outing. If approached as such, here are a couple thoughts...The crux is by no means 5.8, but a single move of 5.5 or 5.6 at most on positive edges with a small ledge immediately below; it could very feasibly be downclimbed, eliminating the need to bring a rope/harness and allow one to go as light as possible...or, one could carry a few double-length runners to rig a swami and clip the bolt for a bit more peace of mind...again, merely suggestions for those comfy with such outings. A fun outing overall, but pretty lackluster climbing to a sweet vantage. |
By andrew520 Mar 29, 2009
| Didn’t even need the #4. three quickdraws did the trick. Great climb! The falcons will put on a show for you at the top. Take a wrench, bolt on chains was finger tight. And the summit log is almost full. |
By Don P. Morris Nov 5, 2009
| When we climbed Finger Rock in spring, 1957, there was a note signed by Herb and Jan Conn still on the summit. |
By Paul Davidson Nov 11, 2009
| Guess Rick gets another trophy for Az FA climbing knowledge! That's an awesome piece of history Don! Thanks. |
By Zeb Rafaker From: MOAB Nov 20, 2009 rating: 5.8
| I soloed this route at least 4 years ago and it's the weeks of pulling out cactus needles I remember the most. That and my very stoned decent in the dark:) |
By Benjamin Smith Jan 21, 2011
| If you climb straight up from the base, you need the #4. It's definitely harder than the second pitch. Traversing left on the first pitch I imagine is much easier. |
By Don Stump From: Sierra Vista, AZ May 23, 2011 rating: 5.6 PG13
| Finished the Finger Rock hike/climb! I would have to be paid to do this climb again. 3800 ft of elevation gain in three miles. 4 hours to reach the base, then a short easy climb. 11 hours and 15 minutes round trip. Bragging rights are worth it, so I would recommend doing this climb once, but Babo was so much better. There is no-longer a scary, shifting rock on the summit. |
By soren tucker From: tucson, az Jun 4, 2012
| Totally awesome at the top and the best urination of my life. Did the hike and the climb at night; started the trail at 7:42 and started the climb at midnight. It was a very surreal adventure hiking and climbing this thing at night with headlamps. The climb was forgettable but the summit was incredible. All you really need, as far as gear goes is three draws, one for the bolt and the other two for the anchors and an optional #2 that should be placed at the bottom, to keep the belayer from tumbling off the ledge if the climber falls. |
By Alex McIntyre From: Tucson, AZ Jun 4, 2012 rating: 5.6
| I was in Soren's party. It was amazing! Also recommend a sling and a locker or two for the belay atop the 4th class. We left the car at 7:42pm and returned at 6:08am. 4 people and most had multiple trips to the top. What a great time. I was the first to top out, around 1:11am. We had 4 in the group, and the last of us rapped off at about 3:00am. |
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