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Finger Rock
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Finger Rock (Standard Route) T 

Finger Rock (Standard Route) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Herb and Jan Conn, late 1940's (probable)
Page Views: 4,286
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Nov 30, 2003

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fisheye foto from finger-tip, featuring flat stanl...

Description 

If your legs and brain are still responsive after the hike up to Finger Rock, you might as well climb it. After all that hard work, it'd be a waste not to, right?

The technical route up Finger Rock begins in the western saddle between Prominent Point and Finger Rock itself. The climbing starts up the north-northeast face of the Finger, immediately above the trail's end:

Climb up easily protected flake, past small bulge and cracks, to a ledge with two small trees (~50').

From ledge, continue up easy terrain, past a bolted 5.8 crux to two-bolt rappel station (~30'). The teetering summit block is another ten feet above the bolts.

A single 60m rope will allow for a rap to the ground.

Extreme exposure and scary, shifting rock will likely make your summit experience a short one. But hey, at least your legs and nerves are trashed for the brutal, three hour downhill slog that lies ahead! Happy trails!


Protection 

A few medium sized cams (0.5-1.0 camalots) and a set of nuts.


Photos of Finger Rock (Standard Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Jefe surfs the board on the summit - May 2010
Jefe surfs the board on the summit - May 2010
Finger Rock <br />(From Finger Rock Trail)
BETA PHOTO: Finger Rock
(From Finger Rock Trail)
Jon Ruland leading P1 on the Finger.
Jon Ruland leading P1 on the Finger.
At the top of The Finger.  The chains are 8 feet from the top, since the summit is a stack of loose slabs.
At the top of The Finger. The chains are 8 feet f...

Comments on Finger Rock (Standard Route) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 4, 2012
By eMurdock
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jun 5, 2004

For a much longer route to the top of Finger Rock, you can start down and left of the standard route. Climb a long pitch or two up easy rock passing some relic pitons after a chimney section (hard to find). Walk across a thin rock rib to join the standard route at the top of the first pitch at the tree. This is a more adventurous, less direct, and scrappier route.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 7, 2008

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO FOUR FREAKIN STARS BABY!!!!!!!!!1111111111111111ONEONEONEONEONE
By tbrain
Apr 7, 2008

This climb made for a great day with a very climactic topout. A few things we learned that were different than what we'd read prior to our ascent: Three hours approach time is underrated even for fit parties and beautiful weather. There may have been some established trails at the terminal section of the approach in the past, but we did not find them. The hillside to the base of the Finger has degenerated into a torn-up weave of false trails, washes, and rockfall. The climb of the Finger, itself, can be done in two pitches (or one) with two well-established belay stations. There is a camouflaged register near the chains (before the final couple moves the very top.) The last stretch to the "skateboard" above the chains is not as precarious as previously described. Overall this made for an amazing day with friends and the rewards were well worth the effort.
By JT Daiker
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 10, 2008

the astonishing approach and spectacular 'summit' far outshine the unremarkable technical climb. early spring is the best time to seek this adventure. more info can be found here:

climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_h...

localhikes.com/hikes/fingerroc...
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 14, 2008

for people who aren't crazy i would recommend half a rack, 10 slings, and a couple lockers to establish an anchor on the ledge with the trees.

also, this climb made me happy where i pee.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Feb 3, 2009

For anyone comfortable with solo alpine-ish rambles, this makes a great training outing. If approached as such, here are a couple thoughts...The crux is by no means 5.8, but a single move of 5.5 or 5.6 at most on positive edges with a small ledge immediately below; it could very feasibly be downclimbed, eliminating the need to bring a rope/harness and allow one to go as light as possible...or, one could carry a few double-length runners to rig a swami and clip the bolt for a bit more peace of mind...again, merely suggestions for those comfy with such outings. A fun outing overall, but pretty lackluster climbing to a sweet vantage.
By andrew520
Mar 29, 2009

Didnít even need the #4. three quickdraws did the trick. Great climb! The falcons will put on a show for you at the top. Take a wrench, bolt on chains was finger tight. And the summit log is almost full.
By Don P. Morris
Nov 5, 2009

When we climbed Finger Rock in spring, 1957, there was a note signed by Herb and Jan Conn still on the summit.
By Paul Davidson
Nov 11, 2009

Guess Rick gets another trophy for Az FA climbing knowledge!

That's an awesome piece of history Don!
Thanks.
By Zeb Rafaker
From: Moab
Nov 20, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I soloed this route at least 4 years ago and it's the weeks of pulling out cactus needles I remember the most. That and my very stoned decent in the dark:)
By Benjamin Smith
Jan 21, 2011

If you climb straight up from the base, you need the #4. It's definitely harder than the second pitch. Traversing left on the first pitch I imagine is much easier.
By Don Stump
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Finished the Finger Rock hike/climb! I would have to be paid to do this climb again. 3800 ft of elevation gain in three miles. 4 hours to reach the base, then a short easy climb. 11 hours and 15 minutes round trip. Bragging rights are worth it, so I would recommend doing this climb once, but Babo was so much better. There is no-longer a scary, shifting rock on the summit.
By robin hood
Jun 4, 2012

Totally awesome at the top and the best urination of my life. Did the hike and the climb at night; started the trail at 7:42 and started the climb at midnight. It was a very surreal adventure hiking and climbing this thing at night with headlamps. The climb was forgettable but the summit was incredible. All you really need, as far as gear goes is three draws, one for the bolt and the other two for the anchors and an optional #2 that should be placed at the bottom, to keep the belayer from tumbling off the ledge if the climber falls.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I was in Soren's party. It was amazing! Also recommend a sling and a locker or two for the belay atop the 4th class. We left the car at 7:42pm and returned at 6:08am. 4 people and most had multiple trips to the top. What a great time. I was the first to top out, around 1:11am. We had 4 in the group, and the last of us rapped off at about 3:00am.