Finger Locks or Cedar Box 5.5
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Kris Landell on Nov 4, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Finger Locks or Cedar Box
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Description This route is really a variation of Northern Pillar, but is an excellent aim for 5.5 as its own route. Climb the finger crack with the small tree in it - the tree is off! Past the tree, head either left to the Northern Pillar bolts, or wander right to merge with other routes to the right, such as Triple Bulges.
Location About 25' right of Northern Pillar.
Protection G pro. Rap station at top on a pine tree.
Heather leading Finger Locks or Cedar Box
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classic beginner crack
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| Comments on Finger Locks or Cedar Box |
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By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Mar 11, 2009
rating: 5.5 PG13
| The route is short, prolly not worth it compare to Rhododendron. Link up with P2 and P3 of Northern Pillar is more fun. |
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 24, 2010
| I think this is a great climb for someone breaking into the grade. No route finding, some thoughtful moves up the crack and some thin moves on the face. It protects well. |
By SketchySam
Sep 7, 2010
| This is quite possibly one of my favorite moderate single pitch routes at the gunks. I'm a crack lover and it's rare to find a nice cruiser splitter like this at the gunks. |
By Heather Selitrennikoff
From: East Coast
Sep 17, 2010
| As a beginning leader, I thought this was a fun albeit short crack with no surprises. |
By LLee
From: New York, New York
Oct 24, 2010
| I thought this was a great route but I disagree about it being a good route for a beginning 5.5 leader. It is rather stiff for the grade and although there are lots of places for gear, some of the stances to place them are not great. I also note that Zac Orenczak's book gives it a 5.8 grade..I don't think it is that tough but there are a few tricky moves, for a 5.5. |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.5
| Definitely one THE best protected routes at the Gunks, and it's a legitimate 5.5 finger crack to boot! |
By Ben Brotelho
From: Albany, NY
Dec 14, 2012
rating: 5.4
| Great beginning leader climb...grade is spot on (might even be 5.4...), gear is plentiful and very obvious, and it is a fun crack! |
By rogerbenton
Apr 14, 2013
rating: 5.5
| Pro is G all the way (obviously, it's a crack), don't know how it could be construed as pg-13... |
By A.wilk
4 days ago
| Fun crack and super well protected. Just be careful if there is a bird's nest in the pod below the tree and the bird is still around. |
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