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Laurel Knob
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Finger Lickin' Good 
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Stemming Laurel 
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Use It Or Luge It 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start 
Walkin' Da Plank 
Wild Turkeys 
Wild Wild West  
Wormhole 

Finger Lickin' Good 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Nathan Brown - rope solo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,187
Submitted By: nbrown on Feb 2, 2012
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Cool swirls of rock on the headwall of the last pi...
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a really nice 3 pitch face line just right of Hypocrites Corner, and just left of Non-profit profiteer ( aka Old Tom Woodruff route). Each pitch has very fun 5.10 climbing on rock that is more featured than usual for Laurel -- more like something straight out of Tuolumne. The last bit on the last pitch is truly amazing! It's also possible to rap the route with a single 60 meter rope.

Note: This route is often running water in the morning but will actually dry out with a couple hours of sunlight.

P-1 Start at a short crack with grass growing out of it -- Climb the cool sculpted holds to a high bolt. Continue past 4 more bolts on fantastic and well featured rock to a 2 bolt belay. The bolts are fairly well spaced but protect the hardest moves very well. No gear.

P-2 Climb the water streak past 3 bolts and into a short right facing corner (protected by finger sized cam). Mantel up onto slab and pad your way to the ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Careful here if the streak is wet.

P-3 Crux your way up to a flake (finger sized cams, including a possible hybrid at the top part of flake). Move up to bolt on surprisingly good holds, and step right to cracks. Climb the cracks and flakes (protected with finger - hand sized cams -- sling long!) to a line of 3 bolts that lead through the amazing headwall. 2 bolt anchor at 95'. NOTE: The cracks on this pitch are still a bit grungy but will clean up nicely with some traffic. The climbing above is well worth the effort to get to!

Rap route with 1 60 meter rope by swinging right at the last rap, and down-climbing a short bushy section.


Location 

In Dillard Canyon on the left wall (walking uphill). Just right of "Hypocrites Corner", and just left of "Non-profit profiteer" (Old Tom Woodruff route).


Protection 

standard LK rack up to hand sized cams. Medium sized hybrid could be useful in the top of flake at the start of P-3.



Photos of Finger Lickin' Good Slideshow Add Photo
Picture Topo.  The streak to the right is Non-profit Profiteer
BETA PHOTO: Picture Topo. The streak to the right is Non-prof...
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By andjoely
From: Clemson, SC
Apr 9, 2012

Highly recommended route. It's probably 5.8R to the first bolt of P1 but after that the route is pretty well protected. The only gear I placed was an orange TCU on P2 and an assortment of cams up to #2 camalot including hybrids for the first 40 feet of P3.

By Stephen Scoff
From: Columbia, South Carolina
Mar 6, 2014

Great variety! Another MUST DO route!