Finger Lickin' Good  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Nathan Brown - rope solo New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  nbrown on Feb 2, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Picture Topo. The streak to the right is Non-prof...

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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a really nice 3 pitch face line just right of Hypocrites Corner, and just left of Non-profit profiteer ( aka Old Tom Woodruff route). Each pitch has very fun 5.10 climbing on rock that is more featured than usual for Laurel -- more like something straight out of Tuolumne. The last bit on the last pitch is truly amazing! It's also possible to rap the route with a single 60 meter rope.

Note: This route is often running water in the morning but will actually dry out with a couple hours of sunlight.

P-1 Start at a short crack with grass growing out of it -- Climb the cool sculpted holds to a high bolt. Continue past 4 more bolts on fantastic and well featured rock to a 2 bolt belay. The bolts are fairly well spaced but protect the hardest moves very well. No gear.

P-2 Climb the water streak past 3 bolts and into a short right facing corner (protected by finger sized cam). Mantel up onto slab and pad your way to the ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Careful here if the streak is wet.

P-3 Crux your way up to a flake (finger sized cams, including a possible hybrid at the top part of flake). Move up to bolt on surprisingly good holds, and step right to cracks. Climb the cracks and flakes (protected with finger - hand sized cams -- sling long!) to a line of 3 bolts that lead through the amazing headwall. 2 bolt anchor at 95'. NOTE: The cracks on this pitch are still a bit grungy but will clean up nicely with some traffic. The climbing above is well worth the effort to get to!

Rap route with 1 60 meter rope by swinging right at the last rap, and down-climbing a short bushy section.

Location 

In Dillard Canyon on the left wall (walking uphill). Just right of "Hypocrites Corner", and just left of "Non-profit profiteer" (Old Tom Woodruff route).

Protection 

standard LK rack up to hand sized cams. Medium sized hybrid could be useful in the top of flake at the start of P-3.

Photos of Finger Lickin' Good Slideshow

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Cool swirls of rock on the headwall of the last pi...