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Chicken Head Ranch
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Finger Lickin' Good S 
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Finger Lickin' Good 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 544
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Jul 21, 2011

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Kristin Knudson on Finger Lickin' Good. Ironicall...

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the farthest right bolt line on the NW face.

1st pitch: (5.9) Follow grooves and big holds past 7 bolts to an anchor behind/right of the detached pillar (or you could just do the 2nd pitch from the same approach ledge as the other routes).

2nd pitch: (5.11a) Ascend awesome, thin face climbing past 9 bolts. This pitch is really fun and pretty sustained. It has steep slab climbing through a couple of bulges on pretty small but sharp crystals. There is a crux bulge between 4th and 5th bolts. The holds get bigger after this, but there are still interesting and entertaining moves all the way to the anchor. This was my favorite route on this wall.

Location 

The start is downhill from the other routes on this wall. Locate the bolt line on the pillar....

Protection 

Bolts and bolt anchors.


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By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jul 21, 2011

Although tricky, this felt easier than Topographical Oceans.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Aug 10, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The second pitch is much higher quality than the first, and accessible via a short scramble.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nowhere near 5.11, the crux might be on the "5.9" 1st pitch.