Finger Lickin' Good
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Agina Sedler 8-4-12
This is a fun mostly finger crack on the seldom climbed Lower East Face of Eagle Pinnacle. It's a single pitch but comes in two parts, separated by a small ledge. The first half is a variable width crack/flake with a very loose but easily avoidable block halfway up. Above the ledge, it becomes a perfect, sustained finger crack that eats up pro and jams. The actual crux is probably the first move or two getting off the ground , but the emotional crux is probably somewhere toward the top. Due to the elevated start, be sure to reach up to get some pro in right off the deck. Good fun for the grade, enhanced by late afternoon shade.
This is on the far right side of the Lower East Face of Eagle Pinnacle. Unlike many of the Pinnacle routes, which start up higher, this route ascends the bottom slab just above the trail. There are a number of cracks on this slab, but this one is the clean-looking finger crack with a small ledge halfway up. There is a bolt line about ten feet to the left of it. To get to the base of the crack, you need to scramble about ten feet up a small entry slab either ten feet left or right of the crack.
Pro to 3 inches with a good supply of small to medium stoppers and/or small cams. 2-bolt anchor at the top.
By Chad F
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Aug 23, 2011
Book says Pro to 3 inches, I think you can use nothing but a small nut for the start, and finger sized cams/nuts for the 2nd half of the climb. Can rap with a 60m from two bolts with rap rings back to the ground.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 3, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pleasant. UK grade mild VS 4c. No more than 60' long. Gear up to 1".