Note: this climb is not to be confused with Finger Lickin' Good at Lumpy. I changed the name from Hubbel's guide to Finger Licking Good (with a "g") to avoid confusion.
On the seldom climbed north face of Turkey Rock -- visible from the parking lot -- is a pink crack bisecting the rock, perhaps 50 feet long. On a hot sunny summer day, this shaded route is an excellent destination.
Locate the highest tree on the North side. Above it is the crack -- can't miss it. Belay at this tree, getting there via a gully to the left of the tree.
P1 Head 3 feet left of the tree into a low angle #3 crack which leads to a thin crack in a right facing dihedral. 5.9 (Alternate: go R of the tree into an obvious dihedral). 80 feet.
P2 up the stunning crack, 10d, which takes good gear, to a ledge with slings.
You can rap with 2 ropes, or continue up Wild Fire, 5.9, a worthy and well-protected pitch that brings you to the summit. For Wild Fire, head right around the corner and arrive at an alcove. Ascend the broken crack until the ledge. The crux felt harder than 5.9. Then move left, thru a slot to the top. 100 feet.
Walk off Left.
Standard rack to #3. Slings after pitch 2; can rap with 2 ropes. Otherwise, can do a third pitch and walk off Left.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the 1st pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the 2nd pitch, Mike Keegan leading.
BETA PHOTO: Mike Keegan at pitch 2 anchor.
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
The last 15 feet of this route warrant its getting 3 stars (amazing finger locks with great pro on perfect granite) - below that, the climbing is merely "very good"...
We did the 2 pitches described above as 1 pitch with no problems. A 60m line gets you to the big tree you started from.
|By Kevin Gillest|
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 27, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Climbed this route on Sunday July 25th with Mike Keegan, spectacular! Very comparable to Vanishing Point, maybe a little bit harder? We continued up above the 2nd pitch anchors, WildFire? Maybe? If indeed this was WildFire, it was much harder than 5.9, in my opinion! There is a short section in the first dihedral, slightly overhanging, no hands, huge stem, no way this is 5.9!