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Finger Licker 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ron Kauk?
Page Views: 2,026
Submitted By: Colin Brochard on Sep 2, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Steeper and more awesome than it appears here.

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  • Description 

    start in a thin finger crack and proceed onto awsome thin crimps on an almost vertical face, very sustained and technical for the grade

    Location 

    right side of the wall

    Protection 

    might be a sketchy trad lead, I toproped after leading rated x (5.7) to the left


    Comments on Finger Licker Add Comment
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    By caughtinside
    From: Oakland CA
    Nov 16, 2008

    FA Ron Kauk? It's been led, but sure looks like thin and sparse gear.

    EDIT: The old Eric Beck guide says the first pitch was freed by two guys before Kauk did it. Information is incomplete, but I would guess that Kauk got the FA on the second pitch. The first pitch is likely 5.10+, but a tricky lead on thin gear.
    By caughtinside
    From: Oakland CA
    Jun 18, 2009

    Just did this one again the other day. This is a stellar toprope, not to be missed if you do Rated X. The face is covered with interesting features and sustained .10 climbing. Really terrific! I saw at least 2 or 3 chopped lead bolts on the face.

    I then toproped it again, trying to stay more in line with the crack that is a little right of where the best face holds are. It's an interesting conundrum... the best climbing is on the face and the crack is out of line, it actually feels contrived to stay near the crack! Definitely a little more difficult as well.

    I scoped it with the lead in mind (plan to go back) and it looks plenty safe, just lots of small cams (blue aliens, etc.)
    By 213blc
    From: THA WEST COAST
    Jul 30, 2010
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    watch out for a couple hollow plates midway and towards the top, wouldn't want to pull these off onto your friends below! awesome route.
    By FGT
    Aug 17, 2011

    It goes on gear but I had to run it out above the crack, which made for a terrifyingly-awesome lead.
    By Lurker
    Administrator
    From: Westwood
    Mar 10, 2012

    Second pitch is definitely worthy, and probably goes at 5.10+. Both pitches take decent gear.
    By T. Page
    From: Truckee, CA
    May 14, 2012
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

    Led this second pitch today after the first pitch of Rated X. It was full on, but can be protected with small nuts, C3's, medium/small under the roof. A blue/yellow offset master cam would have been crucial to protect a potential ground fall about half way up; wish I would have had one, takes nuts too though. It didn't seem like it sees too much traffic, but is a really good, if not bold, pitch. Two raps to the ground.
    By Jeff Angermann 1
    From: Reno, Nevada
    Jul 2, 2014
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Led P1 today. Gear beta:

    (2) #2 WC rocks
    (2 or 3) 0.1 camalot X4 / C3
    (1) 0.4 camalot X4 / C3
    (1) 0.5 camalot
    (1) 0.75 camalot

    Dispense with the stoppers if you have more microcams in the 0.1 size. The crack eats up this size.

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