|By Patrick Shwartz
From Thornton, CO
Jul 20, 2012
So after being stubborn and repeatedly working the same move on a project route in the gym, I have developed pain in my left ring finger. The move/hand hold in question was a left-handed bump up onto a smallish open-handed crimper. These holds are close to what was on the wall: cheapholds.com/mm5/merchant.mv... . Align it so the texture line is horizontal.
Now I have mild pain near/in the A3 and A4 part of my left ring finger. The area ranging from C1 to C3 is more accurate, though. Even when trying to do easy laps on jugs, and after very mild climbing, my finger will be slightly, slightly swollen. Icing helps reduce inflammation. Staying away from climbing this week, I have tried to do some weight lifting, but when I go to pick up a 40 pound dumbell, I can feel the same persistent pain in this area. "Palming" a big bag of flour at the grocery store also recreates the pain.
Here is a link and a picture of the anatomy of the hand. I do not own nor did I create either of these, all rights go to their respective owners.
Has anyone had a similar injury? Is time off the wall the best course of action? Any info is greatly appreciated, much thanks-