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 ADVANCED
Reynolds Hill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Man with a Devil's Hand 
Barf Bucket Traverse 
Black Starr Chimney 
Bloodletting 
Climb and Punishment 
Climbs of Passion Exit 
Coffee Grinder 
Connecticut Yankee 
Cosmic Debris 
Fat Man's Demise 
Finger Grinder 
Fist Crack, The 
Glenda's Chimney 
Hug Jombo 
Hung Like a Horse 
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia 
K.P. 
Klink 
Labyrinth 
Maiden 
Matron 
Moor's Crossing 
Peach Cobbler 
Penis Dimension 
Pooh Corner 
Robert's Rectification 
Serpentine 
Sky Line 
Spatial Relations 
Time Quake 
Tombstone Crack 
Unknown left of Maiden 
Unsorted Routes:

Finger Grinder 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: not sure
Page Views: 904
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 12, 2004
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Description 

Just left of Climb and Punishment, start by slogging up a wide crack with jams at the back. The second half of the route is the money (crux), because there's section of rock that involves climbing a finger crack and stemming on crumbly crystals. Certainly it is not the most remarkable route on the formation; however, it is right next to Climb and Punishment. If you're with a big group and don't want to cool your heels by waiting around, then take a rope and head up this thing. The most peculiar part of the climb was the exit. I was unable to easily squeeze through the gap between the rocks at the top of the pitch (it would have involved a serious exhale), so I did a short funky/crumbly traverse to the left and set up the belay on boulders.

Descent: there are bolts visible down a gully and to the climber's left. One rope'll get you down.


Protection 

Bring a standard rack for the V except no Big bros are required. There is no fixed protection.



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By Jesse Ryan
Sep 15, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I liked the route. Some typical V'd style flared, wide, groveling in the beginning, but relatively easy thanks to the curtain flake on the left. Up high, I found the finger crack crux protected well and thought the rock was pretty good, not that scaled or crumbly, and involved thoughtful moves. I'm pretty skinny - but not terribly so and fit through the final flare easily for a nice belay up near the highest flange or rock. Rappelled off via Glenda's Chimney.