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The first half of the climb is the crux. It has good fingers and feet up the whole thing, and it has good rock. I wish it was longer!
This is the fifth climb from the left. It is just to the right of the OW corner, up the obvious finger splitter.
Few finger-size pieces and nuts.
Going up.... Left foot is on the loose block.
By Jason S.
From: Durango, Co
Oct 4, 2011
Look out for the loose block in the middle.... It seems well chocked, but it still moves a bit.
By Musty Dusty
Apr 15, 2013
Enjoyed this climb as I thought it added a nice mixture of techniques: finger jams, fist jam (one), a stem, and even a little bit of a face climbing. The rock in the middle is still loose as of 4-16-13, but it should be fine. If you like this route, make sure you try Rancho Deluxe as well.