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Sabbatical 36 
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Finger Fun 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 364
Submitted By: eDixon on Sep 25, 2009
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Description 

Right-facing corner running up a prominent left-angling slope feature. Funky rock at the start (2 drilled pins) gives way to a nice, low-angle finger crack.

Guidebook mentions a 5.11 second pitch. The rock looks ???, but I didn't do it, so I don't know.


Location 

About 100' to the right of Sabbatical 36


Protection 

Green - Yellow Aliens for the corner and whatever you want to supplement the two pins.



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By Mike Munger
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 21, 2011

The tips crack on the upper half of the first pitch is quite enjoyable but when combine with the loose rock and poor protection between the two drilled pins on the first half I can only give it a couple of stars and I didn't do the second pitch either so I can't comment on it.

By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

This is a two pitch climb and it is accurately rated at 5.11!!!

Pitch one -- 35 meters -- 5.10 -- excellent finger crack. The beginning protects with two pitons and one can add a couple of purple TCUs. Many blue and yellow TCUs are needed. TCUs fit better than quad cams, but a couple of BD 0.3-0.4 are useful. Fat bolts with stainless steal rings at the anchor.

Pitch two -- 40 meters - 5.11 -- excellent finger crack, but it turns to tips in a couple of short sections, the rack from pitch one works well (providing you bring a few purple TCUs). No extra gear is needed. Two excellent Metolius rap bolts.

We just cleaned a bunch of vegetation on the route and removed a few loose rocks. It is a super fun climb when you are just jonesing to do finger cracks. Bring a nut tool if you like to do a bit more crack cleaning.....

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Nov 11, 2012

weeeee what a climb small gear net moves .. the hard persons bunny slope . loved this climb not yer plug an suffer fest the creek is.... a lil bush at the top almost sent me on a log role..ha ha ha

By Sarah.E
From: Durango, CO
Nov 25, 2012

What the what?