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BETA PHOTO: The route goes up the flake / finger crack. You c...
This is one of the best easy routes at the crag, but requires (very minimal) gear. Good to TR beginners on.
Heads up a right facing flake / finger crack and then a crack / slab.
You can also lead the the crack in the corner 3 feet left of the flake or any combination of the two you like and stay at 5.7.
I prefer to do one then the other for the most bang for my buck.
75 feet left of Sweet Jane at a place where the trail jogs downwards a few feet.
Single set of cams (C4) from 0.3 to #1. Doubles of 0.4 and 0.5 if you are worried. Single set of nuts would be fine too. 2BA.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Carolyn Parker and I put up this route in 2004 or so. Finger Flake is as good of a name as any.
Aug 7, 2016
Climbed crack and slab today. Fun short trad. Be aware, on the flake, half way up is a loose hold. It sounds hollow, looks like a great hold, but when i climbed past it, it jiggled a little. Is still attached enough that i was not able to remove it, but just a heads up. If it is gone, it won't make that move harder since it will open another crack in the back of it.