|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||BrianWS on Apr 22, 2010|
|Comments on Finger Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Anmin Deng
From: Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Jan 14, 2011
|The route is named "æ±Õ" ("shu4-qin2"), meaning "harp", also a musical instrument.|
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Nov 20, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
|Small fingers make the crux far easier. In fact, for me, I would say it's a one-move-wonder that doesn't really compare to the consistent movement and difficulty of its neighbors, Fucking Fall and Big Drum. But if you're looking for a first "11c" tick, jump on it.|
Nov 22, 2013
I liked this route. The character of the climbing changes completely after the ledge. But true, it isn't nearly as continuous as the neighboring routes (which aren't all that continuous in the first place, given the monster horizontal halfway up)
It's not very difficult if you know how to jam and lock -- I sure as hell didn't when I climbed this route and it felt tough. I'd love to get the chance to climb it again and see how it measures up.
From: Taipei City
Feb 2, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
11c is probably a good compromise grade as the crux is definitely more difficult if you cant get your fingers in that sweet crack and much easier if you can.
If you've got sausage fingers and are frustrated by the thin crux , you can bypass it by using holds on the right of the bulge -- just don't claim you climbed the "fingercrack"!