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Little Twin Owls
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Unsorted Routes:

Finger Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 5,128
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Description 

The obvious, overhanging finger crack on the narrow south face. It is very continuous on excellent jams; it is often top-roped.


Protection 

Large quantities of medium stoppers and TCUs; a #3 Camalot is helpful up high.



Photos of Finger Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Ian Boyer on-sighting L.T.O finger crack.
Ian Boyer on-sighting L.T.O finger crack.
Mark Kelleher halfway up the crack.
Mark Kelleher halfway up the crack.
Realizing that I am in way over my head.
Realizing that I am in way over my head.
Comments on Finger Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 22, 2011
By Patrick Vernon
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 1, 2001
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is more like .11c on lead, very continuous and endurance oriented.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 28, 2001

I led, as an onsight, the 5.11 pitch on Country Club in Bouder Canyon 3 days before I made an onsight attempt at this crack.

If the 2nd pitch of Country Club is gold standard 11a then Little Twin Owls Finger Crack feels like 11c (on the sharp end). I had to bear down and fight for just about every move. Luckily, there is a good shake half way up.

As a lead, this route packs a deceptive punch for its apparent diminutive size. It should be on every aspiring tradsters tick list.

By Fletch F. Fletcher
Apr 6, 2004

Oh, how soon we forget... Welcome to Lumpy "Sandbag" Ridge.

By Brian Weinstein
Jun 22, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

From the ground it looks like the angle may ease up and there may be some rests. Neither is true. Sustained, pumpy, and extremely greasy. Small Aliens and TCUs work, fiddling with stoppers burned me. 11+, 2-star.

By Jarrett Tishmack
Jul 25, 2006

I agree with the 11a rating (easy to say in hindsight after taking about 3 different occasions to lead it clean), but it can feel harder if you over protect as I originally did. Move quick to beat the pump. Awesome finger locks, great route.

By Bob Rotert
Sep 7, 2006

Some folks probably won't like this route, or think it's classic, because it is flaring, awkward, greasy and a bit painful...

Did I scare you away?!

I gave it four stars, because I think it is a trad classic & typical for Lumpy. This route definitely should be done on lead to get the full Monty!!! It's 50 yds from the "old" Lumpy parking lot, so it is a great end of the day burn or harsh out of the car warm up. Long ago dubbed an 11a finger crack by a personal friend and bad ass climber named Earl Wiggins, who may have done the first free lead & legend has it, at one point third classed this route back in the early 70s.

Truth be told, the only way someone might think this flaring crack is 11a is if they eat finger cracks for breakfast or they top rope it. Which is how many folks do this flaring 70s test piece. I thought it had 3 distinct cruxes. Since its only about 30 feet long that probably makes the whole thing a crux. Can you say sustained?!? Lead it clean, placing gear, on sight, & you too can call it 11a....

If you're a sandbagger!!...;o)

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 6, 2006

I tried to lead this about a month ago and was soundly rebuffed. Awkward jams and super pumpy. Classic Lumpy!

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Apr 21, 2007
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

The finger crack deep in the dihedral is a "splitter" for Lumpy, but the dihedral around the crack is very flaring. It is tough to get your mitts in there and utilize any good finger jams. Definitely a sandbag at 5.11a....

You could place gear every foot, so there is no reason not to give it a try on lead. Bring 2 sets of cams to #1 Camalot, with a #2 and #3 to protect the final roof and slab moves. Extra cams around a green/yellow Alien would be helpful.

By JPVallone
Jul 21, 2009

Hey GUY? Two sets of cams?

By Ian
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Possibly the hardest 5.11a at Lumpy.

By Buster Jesik
Sep 1, 2010

I told you it was hard Ian, you didn't believe me!

Anyway, my sending rack for this thing consisted of...

3 blue TCUs
4 yellow TCUs
2 orange TCUs
1 red TCU
a few stoppers.

That's all you need!

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Sep 2, 2010

I saw a video of Steph Davis "WALKING" this climb (maybe the small fingers help :-).

By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Sep 2, 2010

I have some friends in town that have done this ropeless, sometimes in flip flops, and with only stoppers....

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 2, 2010

Ropeless and stoppers! Hardcore! ;)

By Larry Bruce
Mar 29, 2011

I watched Earl Wiggins make the first ascent of this, onsight, EBs, stoppers, and made it look like a 5.8 hand crack, a true 'on the Earl'.

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Aug 22, 2011

Super good. The locks are bomber. Almost had the onsight. Felt a bit more stressful but also shorter and some good rests then the 1st pitch on the Naked Edge which we also did on our last trip. 11a isn't completely unreasonable for this pitch. Brilliant finger crack.