Finger Crack 5.9
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BETA PHOTO
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Description This is a short climb, about 25 feet up. The crack starts more wide open with options for laybacks if you are feeling creative. It revolves from the right to left with a one or two degree slant. The crack has yet to be worn out so all finger jams are pretty solid - a good one for those who may not be that comfortable in cracks. Note: There is one loose rock up there, but it does not come out.
Protection Standard rack, with emphasis on mid-sized stoppers. Two bolts with hangers at the top for easy TR or anchor. Easy walk off.
Friso S about to climb Finger Crack despite cold, ...
| Small climb but very fun to learn cracks on!
| BETA PHOTO: The beautiful finger crack viewed from the start. ...
| Peter Dillon cranking the moves to the top.
| Danny half way up the 5.9 finger crack. Fun lay-ba...
| Leading Finger Crack. What a great route! Photo ...
| About midway up.
| At the bottom.
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By Casey Bernal From: Arvada, CO Dec 4, 2001
| There are currently two bolts at the top of the crack making an easy setup for top rope. -casey bernal |
By John Jennings From: Boulder, CO Jul 20, 2002
| Fantastic route! Bomber gear and interesting moves throughout most of the climb. I placed a few mid-sized stoppers and found a great spot for a Green Alien about 3/4 of the way up. |
By Eddie Bruzdzinski Sep 3, 2002
| Cool climb! Bring your chalkbag... I climbed it after it was toproped by everyone in a large party. Very greasy (monkey traverse). |
By Gabe Anderson Apr 21, 2003
| A lot of fun. Fairly sustained. Great intro to crack climbing. |
By Bryan Gartland From: Helena, MT Jun 3, 2003
| Has anyone else noticed the suspect nature of the rock that the right (east) top anchor is drilled into? It may be ok, but the rock around the bolt sounds a little hollow when pounded on with your hand. |
By William McGehee From: Choctaw, OK Sep 23, 2003
| The rock all around is plenty solid. No worries on getting anyone hurt. If anyone rescues a blue Smiley's #7 nut from the crack about 2/3 the way up, I'd REALLY appreciate it back. A nut tool + rock hammer may be required as my buddy didn't really know how to clean it and made the situation a lot worse... Also, if someone has a LOT of free time on their hands, please help me scrub that crack with a bouldering brush. It needs the abrasion. Thanks. |
By Matt Chan From: Denver, CO Apr 5, 2005 rating: 5.9
| "A lot of fun. Fairly sustained. Great intro to crack climbing. " Finger crack that is. There are maybe 2 hands on this route. I used one #1 Camalot, but everything else was in the .5" to .75" range. Felt like I was climbing at Table Mtn... greasy and short (fun nonetheless). |
By Anonymous Coward Jul 2, 2005
| This is a great climb for the moderate or advanced trad climber. I would not recommend that it be climbed by novice trad climbers as there are not very many good spots to rest or put pro in. A great climb on TR for the moderately skilled crack climber. A little greasy on hot days. I also found some blood on a small ledge. Overall an excellent climb sans the grease, blood, or typical weekend crowds. |
By claramie From: Boulder, CO Sep 23, 2007
| This route is really short, but it is a good quality crack. Easy access makes this a good easy trad route. If this crack were in the middle of a multipitch climb, it would be a classic pitch. |
By B-rad From: Englewood Oct 5, 2008
| This crack made for a nice first clean aid climb. Solid gear and short enough to complete with a standard free-climbing rack. C1 perhaps? I have no idea. |
By Evan S From: Erie, CO Oct 18, 2009
| Greasy, but fun. I have a half broken ankle, and found plenty of horizontal ledges to stand on, part crack, part face climb. |
By JitsClimber From: Broomfield,Co Jul 5, 2011
| Grease is getting worse. Watch your hand jams carefully. Climbed it this weekend again, and it's worse than the first time I climbed it. Lots of chalk making it super slick too. Still a fun climb though. |
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Feb 13, 2013
| Awesome finger crack! Best 5.9 I've done in a long time. Two-hang on lead; flash on TR. A couple gear placements are real strenuous. |
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