||Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
|Original: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||150|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 5, 2007|
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Not a new climb but rather, unknown and unpublished. More info would be great.
This is a pretty good climb with some off-balance climbing and cruxes. The climb continuously leans to the right and many of the holds are off-angle.
Climb up a few feet to reach the bottom and left of 2 parallel cracks, place gear and make a few awkward moves up to clip the first of 2 pins. Move out and right on balancy moves and clip a second pin (crux) and continue to the top on more trad gear.
To descend, go back North on the ledge for 10 meters to a rap tree with a sling and a locking biner anchor and rap 65' to the ground.
Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left
') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 Pins Right'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as 'S.I.L.I.
A light rack to 2", plus 2 fixed pins, a good Lost Arrow, and a good angle.
By Jason Haas
Jul 29, 2008
This route is called Fine Line. FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane 1981.