Fine Arete 5.11a
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BETA PHOTO: 11) Black Heart 15) Fine Arete
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Description This is a nice climb that rises out of the water right on the arete that separates Dark Star from Autumnal Wall. Good clips, steep to overhanging rock. It does share a lot of its line with Shibumi.
Protection 2 bolts up top for the anchors. 8 draws for the climb
By vincent pierce Jul 21, 2004 rating: 5.11a
| This route is really FUN! Reminds me a bit of Black Monday. Though it is not as steep it has those good holds that keep coming at ya. Pumped when u get to the crux near the last bolt. Try to stay off the blocky stuff to the right down low or u are just cheating yourself. I have heard it is called "fine arete". |
By vincent pierce Jul 22, 2004 rating: 5.11a
| That rating is supposed to be 11.a! |
By Nathan Fisher Jul 22, 2004
| This route crosses over the old route Shibumi. Shibumi (look at Ruckman's guide) does a hand traverse along the ledge, gets to the arete and then crosses left at the faint left diagonalling cracks near the top. They share the middle bolts. Shibumi's crux was on the arete and was rated 5.11a. The FA of the arete line called it a 5.11b. I have done it and would call it a 5.11a. However, I wouldn't argue over 5.11a or 5.11b. Now to the 5.11d rating, I would be hard pressed to agree with you on that. I need to get back on it and see what I think. Anyone else have an opinion on this route? |
By Eric Jacobsen Jul 22, 2004
| I think he meant to put 5.11a? We can change it if so. |
By vincent pierce Jul 26, 2004 rating: 5.11a
| I meant to put 11a! See my 2nd comment. Of course if u think it is 11b I will take that instead. Haha. |
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Aug 27, 2008 rating: 5.11a
| Lots of bolts! Great for an aspiring 11 leader. Good holds, more pumpy than anything. |
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