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Direct South Ridge T 
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Finding Religion on the Spiral 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Matt Juth/Marshall Massaro
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 465
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Jul 8, 2001

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This route is located at the start of the second half of Religion (off the Spiral ledge). It is basically a direct route that can be used to skip the traversing pitches.

From the block, follow a flake up and right to an old bail biner. Pull the small roof and head into the large, left-facing corner. Climb the corner until you reach a large ledge on the right and belay. For the next pitch go left into a large gully system and climb over to the rest of religion.

Although the features are striking the rock is not the best. The lower portion is exfoliating, and the corner has some lichen on the face, and a loose, quartz dike on the overhanging, right wall. The pro is sparse in the corner, and the loose quartz doesn't make for the most secure stem.

This may not be a first ascent. Someone at least bailed off the lower portion. There were no signs of anyone getting higher. Maybe an old aid route?


The crack in the dihedral looks bigger than it is. Yellow and Red Aliens are quite nice to have. Otherwise the pro for Religion is fine.

The middle portion is a bit runout.

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By ClimbandMine
Jan 13, 2004

Do you get to take credit for a new route if you follow Marshall's advice? "Yeah, that look's like the way to go." Riiiight.

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