This route is located on the far right side of the Nautilus as you view it from the parking lot. It is a wide right-facing dihedral. To access it scramble up to the ledge at its base. The crack in this dihedral is fat. Suck it up, use some technique and/or lay it back in sections and go. I wish I could give a more vivid description of this generic looking dihedral. I'll just say that it held my attention from start to finish. I jammed, stemmed and did some laybacking.As far as fatties go, this is a good sampler.
I did this route with nothing more than 1 #4 Camalot. I wish that I had brought my #5 and #6 Friends also. There are 2 adjacent cracks, where you can sometimes place smaller gear. Upon finishing this climb, establish a gear belay in a scoop at the top. To descend, locate the nearby rap anchor on the back side of this section of the Nautilus and head for the ledge below. Bring a light standard rack, and go heavy on the big stuff.
Apr 20, 2005
This great route doesn't require any pure offwidth technique. Smallish gear can be placed in a straight-in thin crack that ends where the route kicks right- at that point you'll definitely want one or two large (#4 Camalot size) pieces for the wide crack. Hand sizes for the belay.
|By Rob Dillon|
Aug 15, 2005
If you have a #5 Camalot, you won't regret bringing it.
1 each stoppers & cams, and maybe 2 #4 Camalots if you got 'em. As mentioned, there's some supplementary gear in thin cracks that allows you to hang on to the precious fat stuff.
Save some 3-4" gear for an easy top anchor.
|By Buff Johnson|
Jan 20, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This short .9 is a sustained bastard child! Found the use of 2 each #5 Tech Friends helpful, and small gear is useful also. Also, not so obvious, this route finishes with a steep mind-fk handcrack. Good & fun route.
Walk up to bolt station and rap.
|By Brian Story|
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This is a great route and a striking line. I found placing small gear in the incipient crack lower down to be tricky but manageable. I agree that a #5 Camalot or equivalent is usefull but not required after the crack jags right. I recommend belaying off the bolt anchor on top instead of building an anchor. I found liebacking usefull at times.
|By Jason Funk|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 5, 2008
Finally a wide crack with non-thrashing movement to it. Even after reading up I was still pleasantly surprised to find good laybacking, few off moves, and plenty of decent feet up higher. I would also recommend having at least one #5 Camalot for the lower section, or get creative in the thin crack out to the right.
Apr 17, 2009
You can layback this whole climb at an easier grade.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Aug 31, 2012
Awesome, awesome pitch. It blows my mind how many classics there are on this crag. Great right-side in blue collar offwidthing to an awesome switcharoo to left side in jamming and liebacking about halfway up.