This route begins a few feet right of Hot if You're Not aka The Brown Eye Wall and climbs the thin crack through an overhang. It protects well with stoppers and small cams.
The crack starts as a right facing dihedral. About half way up, the crack opens up and you can see daylight through it (but is too small to crawl through). Place some good gear and launch into the overhanging crux (great jugs, but pumpy). It is remarkable that Jim Erickson established this route as a free solo.
Descend to the north (or south, a little harder). This route would be good to toprope, except that there is no fixed anchor on top.
Standard rack to 2".
Warren Teissier seeks the final solution to the Fi...
Just below the crux on a miserably cold morning.
|By shad O'Neel|
Sep 6, 2002
I found an incredible #6 stopper placement for a first piece, then was stoked I brought a big piece (3.5 or 4) for right under the roof. That made me feel good for the steep pumpy section ahead. Really fun, good gear, but well spaced at first.
|By Rich F.|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steep route but toughest part protects well. #4 BD cam fits great up in the "hole" at start of crux, then rest of crack above protects well with small cams (0.3 to 1). Fun route!