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Final Prayer Variation 
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Final Prayer Variation 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bobby Rotert 1982
Page Views: 653
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 3, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Final Prayer Variation
2) The Dirge


Final Prayer Variation starts on the North Facing wall at the west end of the Watchtower. It comes right out of the stream bed. It starts on the left end of this wall, clips a new bolt and then angles further left to a pin. From here it angles back right to a nice hand ledge and up and over to some chains a bit further right. Aside from the rambling nature, it is a very good route with some fun moves. A reachy crux, after the pin. The book calls this a 5.10a, maybe I am getting older and weaker or maybe it's just Ferguson, but I felt this was harder than that.


1 bolt and a pin. A really small cam can back up the pin, and above that there is a large enough horizontal crack for a #1 Camalot, and one more smaller cam or medium nut would help. Long runners are neccesary as well. Chains at the top for a rappel.

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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

A yellow mastercam goes in between the first bolt and the piton. The piton itself seems bomber but can be backed up with a blue mastercam for piece of mind.

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 15, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Fun Fun Fun! Do this and then the one to the left of it Benediction .

By Alec
Sep 5, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

The pin is gone. Not sure where it was but you can slot a grey camalot up and left of the first bolt. This is pretty much your pro for the crux, which is quite a bit higher.

By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Sep 2, 2013

A really fun route. Not to encourage TR but you can set one up by hiking around to the right of the climb. I had to use some fun stemming around the top to get past the bulge.

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

" Not to encourage TR but...."

Well sir you are encouraging it here...