Final Gesture 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | P Ross, A Greene |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Feb 22, 2007 |
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Description Though a little dirty at times (mostly lichen), this route deserves attention. Compared to fighting the crowds on upper Refuse (5.5), climbing this route is a no-brainer, as long as you are solid in the grade. After climbing half of the 2nd pitch of Upper Refuse, break left heading up towards an obvious detached block at the top of the cliff. Climb to a fixed pin (you can back it up with a nut), then follow the lichen covered low angle face up and left (can feel a bit spicy) to a crack that will bring you to the block. Layback then mantel the block (or hump your way over it--that's how the route gets its name) and step left and to the cliff top. Belay from trees.
Location Break right halfway up Upper Refuse (5.5).
Protection Fixed pin and trad gear. Protects well with a standard rack to wide hand or fist size.
| Comments on Final Gesture |
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By USBRIT Jan 8, 2010
| Sorry....named as I was leaving NH for a season in Minnesota. |
By losbill Jan 10, 2010
| Paul/Lee --- Where is the start to FG in relation to the point where Black Lung joins Upper Refuse? Thanks |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jan 10, 2010
| after those 2 routes join climb upper refuse for about 30-40 feet to the spot where you start heading up to the tree ledge belay, instead break left and trend up and left toward the obvious block... it is a little tricky to find the spot which is one reason why this fun moderate sees so little traffic... |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jan 10, 2010
| haha sorry paul i was always told that the mantel was the gesture :) funny how your history can get changed... it is good to have you on the sight to give us some history on the amazing climbs you put up! |
By losbill Jan 10, 2010
| Lee --- Thanks. Twice in the past I have looked left as I approached the tree ledge and not been sure where the line was. Based on your comment, it appears the last time I was actually at the start but felt I was too far up the ramp. I will give it a go next time I'm up there. |
By apross May 5, 2010
| A good one to link with Black Lung. |
By Anna C. From: VT Aug 7, 2010
| For a "5.8 Awkward" outing, do Funhouse Left to Black Lung to this. The final, um, "mantle" is so awesome ... can't believe this doesn't get climbed more!! |
By Jeffrey LeCours From: New Hampshire May 13, 2012
| Went back to lead this today after following it years ago. I really enjoy this pitch. A little balancy stepping away from Upper Refuse initially, but REALLY fun! Will definitely head out this to avoid traffic in the future. :D Bombardment > Black Lung > Final Gesture = 5.8Fun! |
By Peter Lewis From: Bridgton, Maine May 22, 2012
| This is one of those unheralded Cathedral routes that's dead-obvious and obscure at the same time. I mean, it's right there, but it hardly ever gets done. Fifteen feet above the chimney/groove on Upper Refuse, step left on the obvious foot-ledge, then left again onto the face and up a few feet to a tiny right facing corner (pin, can be backed up), then make the devious step left (mental crux) to the base of obvious layback crack. If there is a crowd on Refuse, try not to belly-flop onto the block on the final move--very embarassing. |
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