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T-Wall East
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Art T 
Atom Smasher T 
Bin Laden Been Fooled T 
Blind Date T 
Blood on the Rocks T 
Board Walk T 
Brazen Serpent S 
Bugs From Hell T 
Cake Walk T 
Can O' Worms T 
Capital Assets (aka Mantis aka Never on Sunday) T 
Celestial Mechanics T 
Centerfold T 
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Clip and Trip T 
Competitive Edge T 
Contents Under Pressure T 
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Cota Coca T 
Crackattack T 
Crash Position T 
Crazy Hooker T 
Creaky Tweaks T 
Curb Sandwich S 
Day's Work T 
Defcon Five T 
Digital Display T 
Digital Macabre T 
Dirt Bag T 
Don't Tell A Soul T,S 
Electric Rats T 
Exodus T 
Exposed Aggregate T 
False Alarm T 
Family Plan , The T 
Fear on Ice T 
Fill in the Blanks T 
Finagle T 
Finger Lockin' Good T 
Fly with the Falcon T 
Garden, The T 
Genesis T 
Gift of Power S 
Golden Gloves T 
Golden Locks T 
Gravity Creeps T 
Guardian of the Gate T 
Hands Across America T 
He-Man Woman Haters Club, The T,S 
Heaven of Animals, The T 
Hidden Assets T 
Hold Your Horses! T 
House of The Rising Sun S 
Hungry for Heaven T 
I'm Late T 
In Pursuit of Excellence T 
Infinite Pursuit T 
Jay Walker T 
Let's Face It! T 
Line Drive T 
Lord of the Dance S 
Love Handle T,S 
March Hare T 
Margin Of Error T 
Margin of Profit T 
Massive Attack T 
Mean Cuisine T 
Meeker Rat, The S 
Mirage S 
Molly and Rocket T 
Motor Booty T 
Mrs. Socrates T 
Multiple Use Area T 
My Lost China Doll T 
Myth of the Spastics T 
Nappy T 
New Beginnings T 
Night Shift T 
No More Tiers T 
Nutrasweet T 
Open Sesame T 
Paleface S 
Passages T 
People's Express T 
Plastic Toys T 
Point of Departure T 
Points O' Contact T 
Precious Orr T 
Prerequisite for Excellence T 
Proof of Purchase  T 
Puppy Ride T 
Razor Worm T 
Reptile Analysis T 
Reptile Paralysis T 
Restless Pedestrian T 
Ruby Fruit Jungle S 
Sanscrit T 
Scamper Proof T 
Seal Test T 
Shiva's Last Dance T 
Short Arm Inspection T 
Sly Willie Snores T 
Some Girls S 
Southern Express T 
Squatter's Rites T 
Standard Deviation T 
Steel Puppies T 
Steeplechase T,TR 
Steepopolis T 
Stepping Stone T 
Stone Wave T 
Sugar in the Raw T 
Sun King S 
Sunday Gardening T 
Super Slide T 
Surf's Up S 
Sweep, The T 
Tiers for Beers T 
Time Takes a Cigarette T 
Totem Pole T 
Twistin' in the Wind S 
Unknown T 
Up in Arms T 
Who Needs a Thnead? T 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Robyn Erbesfield, Shannon Stegg - 1985. What a team!
Page Views: 1,506
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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The climb starts on the far right of the roof. Ha...


Kinda silly but kinda cool, Finagle is a guilty pleasure, like 'Slow Ride'.

Yard along the lip of the big roof on jugs until you can pull up and get a stance. Climb a short crack until it fades, and then step left to the arete across a scoop. Finish up in excellent position on the arete to a ledge with a little pine and some new ringbolts, or cruise to the top to milk it a while longer. Bitchen!


Look for a big, low roof left of a perfect orange corner, with a bent pine at the start.


Smaller. Long runners.

Photos of Finagle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Up on the face. (Paul Barnes' photo. )
Up on the face. (Paul Barnes' photo. )
Rock Climbing Photo: Move left towards the arĂȘte, which I'm about to d...
BETA PHOTO: Move left towards the arĂȘte, which I'm about to d...

Comments on Finagle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Mar 5, 2007

The moves at the bottom are great. The route goes downhill from there...
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you don't step left to the arete and instead follow the crack system, you get a very interesting (thin) climb. I was told this is the "direct" variation and goes at 5.9+-5.10.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pretty sure the variation you're referring to is called My Lost China Doll in the Dixie Cragger's Atlas. It's not included in the new Robinson guide.
By sammy raviv
Jan 18, 2015

DCA calls the direct variation 5.9. It's pretty thin on small gear. Fun moves, rivals Super Slide. IMHO solid 5.10.

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