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Finagle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Robyn Erbesfield, Shannon Stegg - 1985. What a team!
Page Views: 1,373
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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The climb starts on the far right of the roof. Ha...

Description 

Kinda silly but kinda cool, Finagle is a guilty pleasure, like 'Slow Ride'.

Yard along the lip of the big roof on jugs until you can pull up and get a stance. Climb a short crack until it fades, and then step left to the arete across a scoop. Finish up in excellent position on the arete to a ledge with a little pine and some new ringbolts, or cruise to the top to milk it a while longer. Bitchen!

Location 

Look for a big, low roof left of a perfect orange corner, with a bent pine at the start.

Protection 

Smaller. Long runners.


Photos of Finagle Slideshow Add Photo
Up on the face. (Paul Barnes' photo. )
Up on the face. (Paul Barnes' photo. )
Move left towards the arÍte, which I'm about to do...
BETA PHOTO: Move left towards the arÍte, which I'm about to do...

Comments on Finagle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Mar 5, 2007

The moves at the bottom are great. The route goes downhill from there...
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you don't step left to the arete and instead follow the crack system, you get a very interesting (thin) climb. I was told this is the "direct" variation and goes at 5.9+-5.10.
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pretty sure the variation you're referring to is called My Lost China Doll in the Dixie Cragger's Atlas. It's not included in the new Robinson guide.
By sammy raviv
Jan 18, 2015

DCA calls the direct variation 5.9. It's pretty thin on small gear. Fun moves, rivals Super Slide. IMHO solid 5.10.
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