Finagle 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Rob Robinson, Robyn Erbesfield, Shannon Stegg - 1985. What a team! |
| Submitted By: | Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006 |
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The climb starts on the far right of the roof. Ha...
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Description Kinda silly but kinda cool, Finagle is a guilty pleasure, like 'Slow Ride'.
Yard along the lip of the big roof on jugs until you can pull up and get a stance. Climb a short crack until it fades, and then step left to the arete across a scoop. Finish up in excellent position on the arete to a ledge with a little pine and some new ringbolts, or cruise to the top to milk it a while longer. Bitchen!
Location Look for a big, low roof left of a perfect orange corner, with a bent pine at the start.
Protection Smaller. Long runners.
Up on the face. (Paul Barnes' photo. )
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Above the thuggish part. Smooth saling.
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By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Mar 5, 2007
| The moves at the bottom are great. The route goes downhill from there... |
By Greg Kuchyt
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.9
| If you don't step left to the arete and instead follow the crack system, you get a very interesting (thin) climb. I was told this is the "direct" variation and goes at 5.9+-5.10. |
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.9
| Pretty sure the variation you're referring to is called My Lost China Doll in the Dixie Cragger's Atlas. It's not included in the new Robinson guide. |
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