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This is a idiosyncratic, litttle, roadside route of a few years back. You can almost belay from your bumper. It lies 8 miles uphill from Elephant Rocks, per Rossiter's guide, on the North side of the road. A small 35-40 foot face which now sports 2 lines.
It started with a wire or small cam to protect an opening slippery crux. Now it is protected by the 1st bolt of the neighboring route. Once you are situated with your left foot on the starting block, you can move delicately left to clip the 1st original bolt (harder) or move up and left and reach far down to clip the 1st original bolt (longer). Long reaches and balance out left to reach a sidepull and clip the second bolt. Then move out left to the arete and up the easier slab around the left. Now there is a 2-bolt anchor to lower from instead of the rap sling of past times.
The neighboring, more modern, more sustained, 4-bolt line (Curb Service) can go at a wandering 10a as you weave holds right and then left of the bolted directissima line.
Originally small cam, 2 bolts, and possible gear above -- now 3 bolts and possible gear above. 2-bolt anchor.
The Fin, Lower Bowling Alley, Boulder Canyon.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c R
I thought it was closer to 5.11 than 5.10. The runout is something to consider and the clips are awkward. Consider a TR if this is outside of your comfort zone.
The climbing itself though was not bad, so I'd give it 1 star.