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Filet-O-Fish 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard, Doug Reed (1988)
Page Views: 1,701
Submitted By: ChanVan on Oct 10, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Man Tim makes it look easy
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Description 

This is definitely one of the most classic lines at Moore's. The rock is some of the best at the North End, which would place it in the running for some of the best rock in the universe, the position is wild, and the gear is bomber. While there are no moves harder than 5.11+, the route is deceptively steep, the gear is kinda tricky at points, and pretty much all of the moves once you get off the ledge are at least 5.11, so by the time you get to the huge jugs at the very top you are really friggin' pumped! After the technical crux off the ledge, big moves on steep rock take you up and into the blobby dihedral system, at the top of which is another cruxy section, followed by some "Thank God" jugs at the top.


Location 

Filet is at the far end of the North End, around the corner and up the hill from Mighty Mouse, and about 20 feet right of the Recommendation. To find the start, look for the obvious ledge about 20 feet up. There are a couple of ways to get there, but all are easy and somewhat chossy. From the ledge, the line follows the tiered, right-facing dihedral system to the left of the arete.


Protection 

Like all Moore's routes, the pro on this one is tricky, and would make onsighting it probably feel quite hard for the grade. Stoppers, a set of TCUs, and singles of camalots up to a #2 should be sufficient. There is a fixed pin about halfway up that seems fine, although I haven't tested it to find out. The bottom 15 feet is kind of chossy, but it is easy so most people just run it out to the ledge, where you can get in plenty of bomber gear to keep you off the ground. There is a set of anchors at the top- OK for lowering, but you should back them up for TRing.



Photos of Filet-O-Fish Slideshow Add Photo
Tim Fisher running a lap on his test piece
Tim Fisher running a lap on his test piece
Almost to the Jugs, but not quite!
Almost to the Jugs, but not quite!
Tim mid way through the route
Tim mid way through the route
Ben starting up the steeps.
Ben starting up the steeps.
Heading up into the dihedral.
Heading up into the dihedral.
Tim Fisher calm and cool
Tim Fisher calm and cool
Filet of Fish climbs the Michelin Man looking features on the right side of the wall.
Filet of Fish climbs the Michelin Man looking feat...
Comments on Filet-O-Fish Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Sachs
Oct 13, 2008

There is a fixed anchor for this route and Enduro Man, independent of The Recommendation's anchor. I think it is a fixed tricam and stopper with a rap ring. Bring a purple tcu to back it up for TR.

By ChanVan
Oct 13, 2008

Thanks Ben- this is true. You can also back it up with a grey alien or equivalent.

By Tim Fisher
Jun 4, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I love this route. It was named for me me me ha ha ha Thanks Porter.

Seriously this thing is great and Unique. Double ropes not bad idea.

My link-up of Filet and Roof Awakening should be getting done boys. Consider yourselves chastised.

By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Nov 12, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Filet actually gets some sun in the morning, so it's climbable on colder Moore's days.