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Immediately to the right of Dave's Dilemma. This is a 100 ft line with no early bail out; so bring a 60 m rope or doubles. A tricky move over the little "roof" at the third and fourth bolts leads up to classic crimpfest route finding. For the tall climber, this move may be 5.12a, but for most of us we will have to hike our feet up a tiny vertical edge before reaching over the "roof". Be tall, or have some ape ancestors. Sometimes all a route needs is a great feature to draw the eye. On this one, it is a very improbable flake jutting at right angles to the wall. Go for it. It's the only jug, and it is killer.
QD only. Double bolt anchor at the top. Another long route, so bring 15 draws and something for the top.
|By Jay Samuelson|
From: Denver CO
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a