File Drawer  5.12b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.12a/b [details] FA:  Richard Wright, Tod Anderson, Tripp Collins, 1996 Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Mar 19, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf. For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Immediately to the right of Dave's Dilemma. This is a 100 ft line with no early bail out; so bring a 60 m rope or doubles. A tricky move over the little "roof" at the third and fourth bolts leads up to classic crimpfest route finding. For the tall climber, this move may be 5.12a, but for most of us we will have to hike our feet up a tiny vertical edge before reaching over the "roof". Be tall, or have some ape ancestors. Sometimes all a route needs is a great feature to draw the eye. On this one, it is a very improbable flake jutting at right angles to the wall. Go for it. It's the only jug, and it is killer.

Protection 

QD only. Double bolt anchor at the top. Another long route, so bring 15 draws and something for the top.