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Figure 8 vs Double Bowline
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Jun 27, 2014
Approaching the anchors on Eclipse (5.6) at Breakn...
amarius wrote:
The knot in the YouTube video is "Bowline on a bight", aka "rethreaded bowline" I've never read of this particular knot inverting, untying, or doing other horrible things


I wasn't sure why this hadn't come up more in this thread. I just practiced it about a hundred times and could not figure out a way that it would come out, even without a stopper knot. I've also learned that it is accepted as a tie in not by the German Alpine Club (without a stopper). Good enough for me.
Antonio Caligiuri
From Bishop, CA
Joined Oct 24, 2013
119 points
Jun 27, 2014
Antonio Caligiuri wrote:
Good enough for me.

It should also be good for your belayer
amarius
Joined Feb 23, 2012
7 points
Jun 27, 2014
Approaching the anchors on Eclipse (5.6) at Breakn...
amarius wrote:
It should also be good for your belayer


Of course. I would never tie in with this knot if my belayer wasn't comfortable with my doing so (and of course being able to check it).
Antonio Caligiuri
From Bishop, CA
Joined Oct 24, 2013
119 points
Jun 27, 2014
RCC@50+ Photo courtesy CO Crack Gear
bowline = knot of death... RobC2
Joined Mar 9, 2009
198 points
Jun 27, 2014
Approaching the anchors on Eclipse (5.6) at Breakn...
RobC2 wrote:
bowline = knot of death...


Looking for a SPECIFIC explanation of how a retraced bowline can come untied on its own. But thanks for your detailed and constructive response.
Antonio Caligiuri
From Bishop, CA
Joined Oct 24, 2013
119 points
Jun 27, 2014
tanuki
Antonio Caligiuri wrote:
Looking for a SPECIFIC explanation of how a retraced bowline can come untied on its own. But thanks for your detailed and constructive response.


It. Will. Not. Ever. Come. Untied. If you are unsure, you can back it up with a fisherman. I have used it and fallen on it. A lot. I usually use a figure eight, but have no problem with the retraced bowline.
NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
121 points
Jun 27, 2014
1000 lead fall? Dude. .. That's more dangerous than what knot you are using.

Stop doing that.
Lorenzo
Joined Jan 4, 2014
0 points
Jun 27, 2014
RCC@50+ Photo courtesy CO Crack Gear
Antonio Caligiuri wrote:
Looking for a SPECIFIC explanation of how a retraced bowline can come untied on its own. But thanks for your detailed and constructive response.


Ach, laddie, yer welcome...
RobC2
Joined Mar 9, 2009
198 points
Jun 27, 2014
Slab...
John Wilder wrote:
Yosemite finish on your fig-8 will make your knot very easy to untie. make sure not to pull the finish tight, but instead leave a bit of space so you can pull the rope out of the knot. the bowline is fine, provided you back it up and check it after every pitch if you're climbing multipitch. make damn sure to back it up, though, as otherwise it can and will come undone.


+1 dude...
Rockbanned
From Plattsburgh, Ny
Joined Dec 18, 2011
221 points


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