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The Long Wall
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Fifty Fifty 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rudaw Janowic, 2009
Page Views: 332
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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roof crux


Start by climbing up the arete, making some bouldery moves to gain the ledge under an overhang. At the overhang, clip the 3rd bolt and figure out which way to go to gain the 4th bolt (crux). From here, the climb eases up as you proceed over a clean face making use of very positive holds. This is a hard onsight. Figuring out whether to go right or left at the crux is not obvious. This route could benefit from more traffic to clean it up a bit.


This route is located on the arete just to the right of the start of Maximum Overdrive, 5.11c and Cave Woman, 5.10d.


7 bolts, shuts.

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By jedi-diah
Sep 17, 2012

I broke a hold at the top of this one for a painful whipper. Maybe I just royally screwed up the beta, but I found it to be pretty painful/unfun--it did not flow easily for me.

Also, it felt hard--harder than maximum overdrive next door.
By Sam Stephens
Apr 13, 2014

Won't do this one ever again... Never should have been bolted.
By BrianWS
Dec 23, 2014

Agreed. The rock is super friable for the first few bolts, and given the traversing nature of the climbing between bolts 1 and 2, a broken hold could have some heavy consequences.
The rock and movement improves a bit later on, but over 50% of the route is on extremely fragile stone. Not worth the time or risk.
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