Field of Screams
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Screaming on Field of Screams.
Best climb of the grade at the wall. Climbs a slab for three bolts to an overhanging, flared crack. Use fingerlocks(!) or interesting liebacks to fire the steepness to a sweet pinch and tough clip, then up and left to a tricky top-out. Very satisfying.
Be wary of loose stuff on this route, I saw a belayer get nailed in the thigh by a fist-sized rock.
Rightmost climb on the wall. Shares the start with the .13a to the left. First bolt is up 25 feet or so.
6 bolts and chains
One final scream before the anchors.
By Ryan Arnold
Jun 8, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Worthwhile route! 3 and a half stars, rounded up to four. I initially thought it was quite stiff for the grade, but with good beta through the crux, 12a is probably right. Currently there's a permadraw on the crux clip.
By Rud Johansen
Jun 30, 2016
A sweet and varied 12a in American Fork, with a scary history (See first ascent in book). Under cling to crimps, pinches, side pull 1.5 pad and finger locks all the while shifting hips from opposing steep limestone bulges. Nice.