|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 450', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Mark Trainor, Perry Teeters|
|Submitted By:||manuel rangel on Feb 16, 2006|
|PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Field of Dreams||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Estes Park
Dec 26, 2010
|Hike is no big deal. ::) Fun route, surprise tourists on the top. Curious about more routes etc, saw some tat, but wondering..... anybody know more than than the 3-4 routes already established?|
By Cody Ferguson
From: Durango, CO
Jan 17, 2011
|Interesting climbing and decent gear. Well worth the hike.|
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 31, 2011
|This route is much better than I expected and has consistently interesting climbing, especially on the 1st, 3rd, and 4th pitches. Kyle C and I did this route on Dec 28 in about 68 deg and shade and were very comfortable. We took a single set and a 70m rope, easily linking pitches 2 and 3 to make this a three pitch climb with a short scramble at the top. Excellent climbing on good rock with good protection in an interesting location makes for a classic route.|
By Tim H.
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 16, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Definitely a classic climb with a great position on the Flatiron! Everything about the climb was super fun. All pitches have a bunch of bolts, but none are entirely bolted.
I felt like pitch 1 was the crux for me with some really wide stemming through 2 different sections, protected nicely(maybe just hard because it was the first pitch after the hike in).
As mentioned linking 2&3 should be done as you barely need to place gear on pitch 2.
Pitch 3 is a breeze and another awesome stemming pitch with bolts nicely spaced through the white band of soft rock. The roof and finger crack at the end are great.
Pitch 4 is the best pitch I have done in the Supes to date! That was some seriously fun movement over a long pitch of great gear and bolts.
Rack we had was: 1x Purple-Yellow Mastercams, .4-3 C4s, nuts; with 8 qds and 8 alpine draws. I bring exactly the same next time, except maybe leave the #3 at home.
FoD was quite civilized compared to some other Supes classics, especially compared to its neighbor Sidewinder . Lots of bolts on the pitches, bolted belays, great rock, great gear, etc. The hike up to the Flatiron is brutal, but totally worth it for this climb!
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Feb 7, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pretty darn amazing climb and day up there! Unreal that I haven't done this before. Oh well, I'll blame it on the dog not wanting to hike all the way up there...
Agree with Tim on his post. The hike is what it is - 3 miles and 3000 ft of elevation gain. Take it or leave it. We treated it as a bonus workout for the day and definitely a really nice one. Certainly gives me perspective on the Granite Mountain approach and helps explain why every crack system on that really super quality rock cliff hasn't been developed. I'm in no hurry to return and risk getting my drill confiscated to set a new route!!
Spectacular in so many ways.
I used the #3 to protect the hand crack off the belay for the 4th pitch, so found it useful. Didn't need both #2's and could've used more than the 10 draws that I brought (didn't realize that there were so many bolts). Didn't use any nuts either. Probably a bit more than a single rack (I carried a double to #2 and had plenty left over on the 1st and 4th pitches), but not much more.
The roofs were well protected, fun and not the cruxes.