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Flatiron
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Field of Dreams T 
Sidewinder T 

Field of Dreams 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 450', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Trainor, Perry Teeters
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 1,734
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Feb 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Manny on the 3rd pitch of Field Of Dreams, 5.10c/d...

PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Walk 50' left of the prow of Flatiron, at a 25' flake leaning against the wall. Left side is thin, right is hands. A welded cold shut is visible 30' above. Climb up and right past bolts then left onto blocks to surmount bolt protected stem roof p1/150'/5.10c. Belay from ledge up and right. Climb easy 5th class cracks up and left to below white band of rock p2/50'. Go straight up past bolts on white band to dihedral and go right into crack that traverses left on bolt to belay on large blocks p3/80'/5.9. Traverse right into hand crack up to bolt above, go left into corner and continue up to the bolt protected roof. Finish on thin corner to belay on large ledge p4/160'/5.10c/d. Final pitch is easy 5th class for 40'. All belays are bolted except the top, so walk off is best (walk north to trail) but you can rap route w/double 60m ropes.

Protection 

single rack of cams from small to #3; nuts, lowe tri cams, 15 QDs/runners


Photos of Field of Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
The route is just left of the prow and follows a more or less straight line.  Lot of bolts and cracks get you 450' of climbing.
The route is just left of the prow and follows a m...
Kyle coming up pitch 3.
Kyle coming up pitch 3.
View from the base.  If you zoom in you can see a few of the cold shuts marking the way.
BETA PHOTO: View from the base. If you zoom in you can see a ...
Another shot of Kyle on pitch 1
Another shot of Kyle on pitch 1
Kyle, on pitch 1 of Field of Dreams
Kyle, on pitch 1 of Field of Dreams
Looking up at the money pitch(4).  One of the best pitches I've done in the Supes.
Looking up at the money pitch(4). One of the best...

Comments on Field of Dreams Add Comment
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By quinndalina
From: Estes Park
Dec 26, 2010

Hike is no big deal. ::) Fun route, surprise tourists on the top. Curious about more routes etc, saw some tat, but wondering..... anybody know more than than the 3-4 routes already established?
By Cody Ferguson
From: Tempe, AZ
Jan 17, 2011

Interesting climbing and decent gear. Well worth the hike.
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 31, 2011

This route is much better than I expected and has consistently interesting climbing, especially on the 1st, 3rd, and 4th pitches. Kyle C and I did this route on Dec 28 in about 68 deg and shade and were very comfortable. We took a single set and a 70m rope, easily linking pitches 2 and 3 to make this a three pitch climb with a short scramble at the top. Excellent climbing on good rock with good protection in an interesting location makes for a classic route.
By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 16, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Definitely a classic climb with a great position on the Flatiron! Everything about the climb was super fun. All pitches have a bunch of bolts, but none are entirely bolted.

I felt like pitch 1 was the crux for me with some really wide stemming through 2 different sections, protected nicely(maybe just hard because it was the first pitch after the hike in).

As mentioned linking 2&3 should be done as you barely need to place gear on pitch 2.

Pitch 3 is a breeze and another awesome stemming pitch with bolts nicely spaced through the white band of soft rock. The roof and finger crack at the end are great.

Pitch 4 is the best pitch I have done in the Supes to date! That was some seriously fun movement over a long pitch of great gear and bolts.

Rack we had was: 1x Purple-Yellow Mastercams, .4-3 C4s, nuts; with 8 qds and 8 alpine draws. I bring exactly the same next time, except maybe leave the #3 at home.

FoD was quite civilized compared to some other Supes classics, especially compared to its neighbor Sidewinder . Lots of bolts on the pitches, bolted belays, great rock, great gear, etc. The hike up to the Flatiron is brutal, but totally worth it for this climb!