|White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
This link-up connects the start of Good Housekeeping to Stone Hinge, offering a 35 meter pitch of varied climbing on excellent rock. One of the longest and best pitches on the White Cliffs.
Begin with the start of Good Housekeeping. After the first bolt (5.10c) continue up the vertical crack to a ledge. Step left onto an arete and climb a slabby ramp past 5 new bolts (5.10-), then move right and jam a short but sweet finger crack (now on Stone Hinge). Move left at a horizontal fingertip crack to a ledge, then step right and lieback a tricky arete past 2 bolts (5.10c), moving right after the second bolt up to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
You can lower-off or rap with a 70 meter rope.
With a 60 meter rope you can make a short rappel to the Popular Mechanics anchor then rappel 85 feet to the ground.
8 bolts, a 1.5 to 2 inch CD for the crack after the first bolt, then medium to large stoppers and CDs from .25 to 1 inch for the upper crack.
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
HARD start, glad that fixed nut was in there before the first bolt. 10c moves. After that good 10a face moves bolted to a great finger crack. Then pull the lip to an arete bolted on the right. The move to gain that is probably 10c again. Heady move. From there to the topout is just fun.
Bob has a brilliant eye for lines and this is yet another brilliant line he's found in a place that should have been discovered long ago being as close to Popular Mechanics as it is. Thoughtfully bolted, long and fun. Honestly to me the opening moves were the hardest. The rest comes together perfectly. Challenging at times but so much fun. One I'll definitely be back to do again.
|By Brian Chastain|
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is likely the best route up there. I disagree on the PG13, at least for the start. First bolt ain't but 10-12' off the ground and you make the clip from a jug. If there were anything I would consider PG13 would be the potential to take a fall on the Noline something like the fourth to fifth bolt up. Amazing fun this thing was.