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 ADVANCED
White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ace of Spades T 
Conqueror Worm TR 
Field and Stream T 
Good Housekeeping T 
High Anxiety T 
High Tension T 
Jack of Hearts T 
Make or Break Flake T 
Nolina Crack T 
Perennial Favorite T 
Popular Mechanics T 
Quest for Fire T 
Scientific Americans T 
Sen Blen T 
Sharon Stone T 
Solar Flare T 
Stone Hinge T 
Wilted Flower Children T 
Unsorted Routes:

Field and Stream 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tony Sartin and Bob Gaines, September 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 690
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Sep 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: a. Popular Mechanics

b. Good Housekeeping

c. Fie...

Description 

This link-up connects the start of Good Housekeeping to Stone Hinge, offering a 35 meter pitch of varied climbing on excellent rock. One of the longest and best pitches on the White Cliffs.

Begin with the start of Good Housekeeping. After the first bolt (5.10c) continue up the vertical crack to a ledge. Step left onto an arete and climb a slabby ramp past 5 new bolts (5.10-), then move right and jam a short but sweet finger crack (now on Stone Hinge). Move left at a horizontal fingertip crack to a ledge, then step right and lieback a tricky arete past 2 bolts (5.10c), moving right after the second bolt up to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.


Location 

You can lower-off or rap with a 70 meter rope.

With a 60 meter rope you can make a short rappel to the Popular Mechanics anchor then rappel 85 feet to the ground.


Protection 

8 bolts, a 1.5 to 2 inch CD for the crack after the first bolt, then medium to large stoppers and CDs from .25 to 1 inch for the upper crack.



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By Fluoride
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

HARD start, glad that fixed nut was in there before the first bolt. 10c moves. After that good 10a face moves bolted to a great finger crack. Then pull the lip to an arete bolted on the right. The move to gain that is probably 10c again. Heady move. From there to the topout is just fun.

Bob has a brilliant eye for lines and this is yet another brilliant line he's found in a place that should have been discovered long ago being as close to Popular Mechanics as it is. Thoughtfully bolted, long and fun. Honestly to me the opening moves were the hardest. The rest comes together perfectly. Challenging at times but so much fun. One I'll definitely be back to do again.

By Brian Chastain
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is likely the best route up there. I disagree on the PG13, at least for the start. First bolt ain't but 10-12' off the ground and you make the clip from a jug. If there were anything I would consider PG13 would be the potential to take a fall on the Noline something like the fourth to fifth bolt up. Amazing fun this thing was.