|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 115'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Tony Sartin and Bob Gaines, September 2012|
|Submitted By:||Bob Gaines on Sep 28, 2012|
|Comments on Field and Stream||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
HARD start, glad that fixed nut was in there before the first bolt. 10c moves. After that good 10a face moves bolted to a great finger crack. Then pull the lip to an arete bolted on the right. The move to gain that is probably 10c again. Heady move. From there to the topout is just fun.
Bob has a brilliant eye for lines and this is yet another brilliant line he's found in a place that should have been discovered long ago being as close to Popular Mechanics as it is. Thoughtfully bolted, long and fun. Honestly to me the opening moves were the hardest. The rest comes together perfectly. Challenging at times but so much fun. One I'll definitely be back to do again.
By Brian Chastain
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|This is likely the best route up there. I disagree on the PG13, at least for the start. First bolt ain't but 10-12' off the ground and you make the clip from a jug. If there were anything I would consider PG13 would be the potential to take a fall on the Noline something like the fourth to fifth bolt up. Amazing fun this thing was.|