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Three cruxes on this one. First off the deck, surmounting the bulge that is apart of every route in this section. Thin edges get you up to a rest, followed by a short pumpy, though far less technical. Setting this route apart from any of the other 11's, the roofcrack up top is the cherry on top. Fingerlocks and a few fists up top, soon your holding onto the jug. Sit down, clip the chains.
Look for the high roof with the beautiful finger crack splitting the final section. 3rd from the left.
Bolts, and Chains. Skip the last bolt, it is for top ropers and lowering off, it keeps the rope from getting caught down in the crack if your sagging through the last section. If you slip out of that crack, or even fall off the jug up top, the fall is long indeed, but really clean.
Sometimes the upper crack has a resident, so look before you throw in that finger lock. Considering one day we watched a 16" centepede crawl across our rope as it lay against the wall, my partner having just untied. The thing had a thicker body than our rope!
Don't be scared of this one just because of that roof crack up top! Consider that if you can not unlock the moves on that upper crack (fairly common), then you can unclip the last two bolts under the roof and easily traverse over to the chains on #12. Have fun!
The first crux is surmounting the tricky slab.
Fingers and hands through the roof.
|Comments on Fiddler on the Roof
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 25, 2008
Fun route, with a wide variety of climbing. This route has a little bit of everything. The last bolt seemed like clipping it would be the crux without the draw already hung and the previous draw is not far behind so I would recommend skipping it. By the time it is easy to clip you're at the anchors.
|By Craig Childre|
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 12, 2013
The last bolt was put in for those who are hang dogging the final moves, and to keep the rope out of the crack when top roped. I've blown the roof and taken a healthy clean 15 footer. Soft catch helps, and watch getting flipped by the rope. Brain bucket is advisable.