Fiddler on the Roof
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 44 votes
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 4,322 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Craig Childre on Feb 1, 2008 · Updates |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Three cruxes on this one. First off the deck, surmounting the bulge that is apart of every route in this section. Thin edges get you up to a rest, followed by a short pumpy, though far less technical. Setting this route apart from any of the other 11's, the roofcrack up top is the cherry on top. Fingerlocks and a few fists up top, soon your holding onto the jug. Sit down, clip the chains.
Location
Look for the high roof with the beautiful finger crack splitting the final section. 3rd from the left.
Protection
9 Bolts, and Chains. Leaver biners on both chains. Skip the last (9th) bolt, it is for top ropers and lowering off, it keeps the rope from getting caught down in the crack if your sagging through the last section. If you slip out of that crack, or even fall off the jug up top, the fall is long indeed, but really clean.
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