BETA PHOTO: From The Slab, 4/11/02.
Fiddle Head is on the north side of Fern Canyon, east of Pellaea and Onoclea. This rock holds a fine east face route, and a couple steeper and harder routes on its west face. Fern Canyon is heavily affected by bird closures.
From the Mesa Trail, hike into Fern Canyon and past the Goose Eggs which loom above the trail to the north. Fiddle Head is the southernmost rock in the next stratum of rock to the west, but it can be difficult to pick out because the southern end of it is broken and overgrown. To access the west face routes, continue as for Pellaea and Onoclea. To access the east face, bushwack north off the trail well before reaching the prominent Superfresh boulder, and weave through fallen logs and boulders. The East Face route begins just to the right of a prominent left facing dihedral.
Weather station 2.3 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Fiddlehead
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Fiddlehead
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fiddlehead:
Irish Spring 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Fiddlehead
A Shadow Sickness 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a CO
: ... : Fiddlehead
To approach, follow the faint trail uphill, starting a bit past the huge Superfresh boulder, and head up 50 yards or so and then across the talus to the base of the big, right-facing dihedral. Castles Made of Sand is the bolted line on the smooth slab just right of this corner.The climb begins by firing up through the bouldery, overhanging crack at the base of the route (this is the same start shared by Clarence and Castles). This route is rated 5.9 in the Rossiter guide, but this ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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