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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Shadow Sickness T 
Castles Made of Sand S 
Chains of Love T,S 
East Face/Fiddle Head T 
Fertile Crescent. T 
Irish Spring T,S 
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 
Men Only T 
Surfing Samarsa T 
Unknown Dihedral T 

Fiddlehead Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,250'
Location: 39.9659, -105.2891 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,033
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 1969


33° | 23°

37° | 22°

44° | 27°

48° | 29°

37° | 23°
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  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Fiddle Head is on the north side of Fern Canyon, east of Pellaea and Onoclea. This rock holds a fine east face route, and a couple steeper and harder routes on its west face. Fern Canyon is heavily affected by bird closures.

    Getting There 

    From the Mesa Trail, hike into Fern Canyon and past the Goose Eggs which loom above the trail to the north. Fiddle Head is the southernmost rock in the next stratum of rock to the west, but it can be difficult to pick out because the southern end of it is broken and overgrown. To access the west face routes, continue as for Pellaea and Onoclea. To access the east face, bushwack north off the trail well before reaching the prominent Superfresh boulder, and weave through fallen logs and boulders. The East Face route begins just to the right of a prominent left facing dihedral.

    Climbing Season

    For the Fern Canyon area.

    Weather station 2.3 miles from here

    11 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Fiddlehead

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fiddlehead:
    East Face/Fiddle Head   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad   
    Irish Spring   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Leprechaun Promenade   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    A Shadow Sickness   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Castles Made of Sand   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Chains of Love   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Fiddlehead

    Featured Route For Fiddlehead
    Rock Climbing Photo: Here's the TIME Magazine Cover "Life On The E...

    Chains of Love 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  CO : Flatirons : ... : Fiddlehead
    This is the only route I know of that has made the cover of Time Magazine. Check out a back issue from about two or three summers ago to see Beth Wald's vintage shot of Colin Lantz busting a sick dead hang off the stonker huecos on the crux pitch whilst clad in radical 80's lycra!Chains, while it does have an intermediate belay, can be done in one pitch with 70-meter rope. It climbs out the enormous, pocketed roof on the west side of Fiddlehead, about 70 yards downhill and south from Rip This J...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Local Information for Fiddlehead
    Photos of Fiddlehead Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers Kat and Ryan on Lepracaun Promenade (10b)...
    Climbers Kat and Ryan on Lepracaun Promenade (10b)...

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