Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Fiddlehead
Omega Pacific Wedgie Set #4-13

$89.95 20% off

$71.96

at Backcountry

6    more...
MSR Reactor Pot

$69.99 30% off

$48.99

at AlsSports

3    more...
Scarpa Instinct Climbing Shoe -XS Edge

$144.95 25% off

$108.71

at Backcountry

7    more...
Edelweiss Curve ARC 9.8mm Climbing Rope

$199.90 20% off

$159.92

at Backcountry

8    more...
Lowa Weisshorn GTX Boot - Men's

$459.95 21% off

$359.94

at E-OMC

1    more...
Black Diamond Vario Chest Harness

$39.95 20% off

$31.96

at Backcountry

1    more...
Bell Strut Bike Helmet

$39.99 25% off

$29.99

at AlsSports

   more...
Sterling - Marathon 9mm Half Rope

$185.00 24% off

$139.97

at GearX

35    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Shadow Sickness 
Castles Made of Sand 
Chains of Love 
East Face/Fiddle Head 
Fertile Crescent. 
Irish Spring 
Leprechaun Promenade 
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint 
Men Only 
Surfing Samarsa 
Unknown Dihedral 

Fiddlehead 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,250'
Lat, Long: 39.9659, -105.2891 Map
Page Views: 13,596. Good page?   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 1969

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>


BETA PHOTO: From The Slab, 4/11/02.

Description 

Fiddle Head is on the north side of Fern Canyon, east of Pellaea and Onoclea. This rock holds a fine east face route, and a couple steeper and harder routes on its west face. Fern Canyon is heavily affected by bird closures.


Getting There 

From the Mesa Trail, hike into Fern Canyon and past the Goose Eggs which loom above the trail to the north. Fiddle Head is the southernmost rock in the next stratum of rock to the west, but it can be difficult to pick out because the southern end of it is broken and overgrown. To access the west face routes, continue as for Pellaea and Onoclea. To access the east face, bushwack north off the trail well before reaching the prominent Superfresh boulder, and weave through fallen logs and boulders. The East Face route begins just to the right of a prominent left facing dihedral.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fiddlehead:
East Face/Fiddle Head   5.4     Trad   
Irish Spring   5.9+ PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Leprechaun Promenade   5.10b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
A Shadow Sickness   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint   5.10d     Trad, 2 pitches   
Castles Made of Sand   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Chains of Love   5.12b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Fiddlehead

Featured Route For Fiddlehead
Here's the TIME Magazine Cover "Life On The Edge" issue (September 6, 1999 Vol. 154 No. 10). <br /> <br />Source: <a href='http://www.time.com/time/covers/0,16641,19990906,00.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.time.com/time/covers/0,16641,19990906,00.html</a>

Chains of Love 5.12b  CO : Flatirons : ... : Fiddlehead
This is the only route I know of that has made the cover of Time Magazine. Check out a back issue from about two or three summers ago to see Beth Wald's vintage shot of Colin Lantz busting a sick dead hang off the stonker huecos on the crux pitch whilst clad in radical 80's lycra!Chains, while it does have an intermediate belay, can be done in one pitch with 70-meter rope. It climbs out the enormous, pocketed roof on the west side of Fiddlehead, about 70 yards downhill and south from Rip This J...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Fiddlehead Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers Kat and Ryan on Lepracaun Promenade (10b), on the summit of the Fiddle Head in Fern Canyon.

Climbers Kat and Ryan on Lepracaun Promenade (10b)...