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 ADVANCED
The Golden Wall
Select Route:
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Golden Dream, The T,TR 
Jam On! T,TR 
Scoop Arete T,TR 
Scoop Face T,TR 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 
Skink T,TR 
Skink Redirect TR 
Slot Machine T,TR 
Stinky Americans T,TR 
Super Skink TR 
Time for Therapy T,TR 

Fickle Fingers 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,063
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 20, 2006

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Crack

Description 

Face/finger-crack climb followed by double roof. Two cruxes - mid-height, and very long reach through roofs.


Location 

Follow discontinuous fingercrack 10 feet left of Golden Dream, through roofs. Easy walk-off.


Protection 

PG pro, small stuff. Double-bolted anchor at the top.



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Fickle Fingers
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By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
May 3, 2010

Got the onsight lead on 5/2/2010. Excellent nut placements the whole way, though at the real crux at the end of the crack, the #3 stopper is very difficult to get placed well.

By kenr
Dec 4, 2012

It's a typical Gunks finger crack: Don't expect to get many good jams, be prepared to use it some other way.

Indeed the first roof is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be prepared to make a serious dynamic lunge for it.