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The Golden Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 
Completely Francois TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Golden Dream, The T,TR 
Jam On! T,TR 
Scoop Arete T,TR 
Scoop Face T,TR 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 
Skink T,TR 
Skink Redirect TR 
Slot Machine T,TR 
Stinky Americans T,TR 
Super Skink TR 
Time for Therapy T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Fickle Fingers 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,235
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 20, 2006

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Crack

Description 

Face/finger-crack climb followed by double roof. Two cruxes - mid-height, and very long reach through roofs.

Location 

Follow discontinuous fingercrack 10 feet left of Golden Dream, through roofs. Easy walk-off.

Protection 

PG pro, small stuff. Double-bolted anchor at the top.


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Fickle Fingers
BETA PHOTO: Fickle Fingers

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By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
May 3, 2010

Got the onsight lead on 5/2/2010. Excellent nut placements the whole way, though at the real crux at the end of the crack, the #3 stopper is very difficult to get placed well.
By kenr
Dec 4, 2012

It's a typical Gunks finger crack: Don't expect to get many good jams, be prepared to use it some other way.

Indeed the first roof is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be prepared to make a serious dynamic lunge for it.