This is yet another obscure little route....
If you seek this climb, find it on the far ight side of Lower Peanuts. It is right of Star Wars and just right of Home Free. It is squeezed between Off the Cuff and Sickle. It has a pleasant if brief, 5.8, crux dihedral.
This climb starts up in a short, thinnish, left-facing dihedral just right of a wide cleft (10") called Off the Cuff. Small gear, a bit of stemming, and liebacking and you're through the crux. You can continue upward in a chimney with an interesting but easy roof move. Find a belay. Exit easily right to 3rd class terrain & descend. There is lichen and a bit of loose rock here.
I found these notes on this route as I was reminiscing about climbing with a young man, Ryan, a son of a good friend of mine, who is no longer with us in body. It was his first outdoor climbing day.
Basic Eldo rack.
|Comments on Fickle Finger of Eight
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This pitch would be much more pleasant if it were climbed more. As is, it is currently pretty lichen covered.
|By Ben Burnett|
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
The first 30 ft are clean and beautiful, and an easy downclimb can be done from the ledge. It'd be classic if it were on a long route.