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 ADVANCED
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar 
Aspenleaf Dihedral 
Black Pearl 
Blows Against the Empire 
Chaucer 
Cornered, straight up variation 
Dihedral 
Do or Do Not 
Double Cracks 
Easy Off 
Empire Strikes Back, The 
Faith, Hope and Charity 
Fickle Finger of Eight 
Forbidden Planet 
Home Free 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) 
Just Another Girl's Climb 
Let's Jet 
Narrow Gate, The 
No Visible Means of Support 
Nova 
Off The Cuff 
Peanuts 
Pretender, The 
Right Escape 
Sacred and the Profane, The 
Scorpions 
Shield, The 
Sickle 
Star Track 
Strolling 
Tracer 
Trouble And Strife 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) 
Whiskey Gala 
Wired 
X-Wing 
Young, Blonde, and Easy 
Your Basic Lieback 

Fickle Finger of Eight 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Carl Lemke, solo, 1981
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 4, 2003
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is yet another obscure little route....

If you seek this climb, find it on the far ight side of Lower Peanuts. It is right of Star Wars and just right of Home Free. It is squeezed between Off the Cuff and Sickle. It has a pleasant if brief, 5.8, crux dihedral.

This climb starts up in a short, thinnish, left-facing dihedral just right of a wide cleft (10") called Off the Cuff. Small gear, a bit of stemming, and liebacking and you're through the crux. You can continue upward in a chimney with an interesting but easy roof move. Find a belay. Exit easily right to 3rd class terrain & descend. There is lichen and a bit of loose rock here.

I found these notes on this route as I was reminiscing about climbing with a young man, Ryan, a son of a good friend of mine, who is no longer with us in body. It was his first outdoor climbing day.


Protection 

Basic Eldo rack.



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By Tombo
From: Boulder
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This pitch would be much more pleasant if it were climbed more. As is, it is currently pretty lichen covered.

By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

The first 30 ft are clean and beautiful, and an easy downclimb can be done from the ledge. It'd be classic if it were on a long route.