Fickle Finger of Eight  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.7+ [details] FA:  Carl Lemke, solo, 1981 Submitted By:  Leo Paik on May 4, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is yet another obscure little route....

If you seek this climb, find it on the far ight side of Lower Peanuts. It is right of Star Wars and just right of Home Free. It is squeezed between Off the Cuff and Sickle. It has a pleasant if brief, 5.8, crux dihedral.

This climb starts up in a short, thinnish, left-facing dihedral just right of a wide cleft (10") called Off the Cuff. Small gear, a bit of stemming, and liebacking and you're through the crux. You can continue upward in a chimney with an interesting but easy roof move. Find a belay. Exit easily right to 3rd class terrain & descend. There is lichen and a bit of loose rock here.

I found these notes on this route as I was reminiscing about climbing with a young man, Ryan, a son of a good friend of mine, who is no longer with us in body. It was his first outdoor climbing day.

Protection 

Basic Eldo rack.