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Climb easy ground to the roof and get as high as you can to get some gear in the roof. Step back down and right to a slab and climb straight up to a heady move and step left back into the crack. Throw in some gear and enjoy the finger and hand crack up to a small ledge. Get it back and finger lock up the last portion to the bolted anchor.
The direct version which is straight up the roof goes at 11d
Climbers right of the approach along the wall 5 minutes. The obvious splitter finger crack all the way up the face.
finger and a few hand pieces and a grey metolius or black alien for the roof
By Dustin Stephens
Feb 20, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The direct version is better protected, better climbing, and not much harder.
From: Bloomington, IN
May 24, 2012
dirrect was challenging. the normal was desperate.
By Chad Wagner
Sep 11, 2014
Ditto on the direct but cant relate to the scary original(backed down from fear of dying, your gon die) be sure to bring the ultra small gear for direct, and sport mentality.