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This is a another wonderful easy Flatiron climb. It has a "classic" rating in Roach's Flatiron classics guide book. There are a couple large runouts (~25-35ft) on this climb, so I gave it a "s" rating even though other guide books don't.
P1: Start at the southern corner of the rock and head up the east face. A 5.8 varition goes up a thin crack around the corner. Belay below a bulge on the arete or near a small tree. (~120 feet, 5.2).
P2: Climb through a bulge, and head up a clean runout slab. Belay near the south edge. (~130 feet).
P3: This is the best pitch on the climb. Head up the arete, place some pro in the small crack, and then hand traverse the ridge line to the summit. Enjoy the exposure off the back side into Bear Canyon. The best protection on this pitch is a good smear and a firm grasp.
Descent: Sling the summit block with the rope and rap off the back side (west side). We did a double rope rap to the east into the gully north of Fi. This is a better option in my option.
Light rack to 2 inches.
|By Mike Sofranko|
Aug 21, 2001
We did a single rope rap with a 60M rope north/east into the gully between Fi and Fo. If you rap to the end of the rope, you will just make it to walking territory - about 40 feet up the gully from the start of Quadratic Equation. Pulling the rope can be difficult, though.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 21, 2001
Indeed, Mike, we did the same rap, and it took the body weight of 2 people on the rope to get it to move. So I'm not sure I'd recommend this rap, even though it does set you up nicely for Q.E.
|By Kevin Craig|
Apr 9, 2002
We did this route on 4/5/02 and I agree with both 5.3 rating here (as opposed to Rossiter's 5.0) and the added "s." If you don't like the summit ridge hand traverse it is also possible to traverse straight north across the face from the p2 belay. I got a piece in about 30' out (a red(?) tri-cam at my feet) then about another 15-20' to the large gully running up the face where more pro is available up to the rappel point. Again, your best pro is good clean slab technique (fairly low angle though). The "sqeeze chimney" between Fi and Fo on the walk east from the rap in interesting and fun; don't bring your tubby friends on this climb! :_)
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 12, 2004
Lying back solo on the hand traverse made it worth going up there.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 25, 2004
As an old but beginning climber without much adrenalin, this was an enjoyable route. If I can do it anyone can.
We had 5 climbers going up in parallel (3 and 2). Alan, Byron, John, Chris, and Kevin. After 2 1/2 pitches, we enjoyed a wonderfully clear day (sufficient to see Buckley AFB and DIA).The traverse was my favorite part of the climb as it was my first such climbing experience. The rappel has much loose rock to be kicked onto climbers who are foolish enough to not move out from under the rope after completion. Beware.The hike back is very short and could be done in climbing shoes.
All together we took less than 3 hours from start to return.
|By Ben Sachs|
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a R
This thing is really good. In fact, I did not think 5.3 could be so fun. Fun climbing, good rock, well-defined line, and amazing position.
P1: ~35m to ledge with small tree. Sling flake for belay with optional small cam. This pitch took good gear.
P2: Pull cruxy bulge with really good gear, then run out some easy terrain to an obious ledge below ridge with good crack for belay.
P3: Go up to ridge, place a good piece, and run out the super cool hand traverse for a good while. This pitch deserves the R rating, but you have bomber hands the whole time (and good feet most of the time...). Belay at the rap station.
Rap WEST with single rope off the sling nest (looked good, locking biner is still there with newish slings) and scramble easily south around the formation to your packs.
I think you could do this in 2 pitches with a 70m, but rope drag would be bad and communication very challenging on the last pitch.