FF1  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  Steve Hong? Submitted By:  david goldstein on May 10, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The bottom half is a less than vertical corner (~5.9) crack with rests crack that widens from 3 Friends to 4 Friends. The upper half of the pitch overhangs and is more consistent in size, 3.5 Friends or blue Camalots.

A pretty great line, but docked a star because I decided midway through the crux upper section that I really don't like fist jamming.

Location 

On the far right side of Fin, about 50 meters past Virgin Voyage. Like most corners on Fin, this faces right; it goes into the shade around noon in the spring.

Protection 

The first 30' feet or so is pretty easy and can be protected w/ 3 Friends or gold Camalots. After that it's a question of how many 3.5 F / Blue C you need/want to protect 100', 50' or so of which are continuously overhanging; I believe I had seven but I also had one #4 Friend and three #3.5 Camalots. I would have preferred to have more of the 3F / Blue C sizes. I'm usually good at walking larger pieces but it found doing so difficult on the overhanging section of this climb.

The anchor is not so great: one modern bolt w/ some slings through it and a vintage Hong bolt with a cheesy home made hanger and a single sling girth hitched through the sharp-edged eye.

Our 70M rope was just barely long enough to rap with about 5' of down climbing.