|1,035 page views|
The bottom half is a less than vertical corner (~5.9) crack with rests crack that widens from 3 Friends to 4 Friends. The upper half of the pitch overhangs and is more consistent in size, 3.5 Friends or blue Camalots.
A pretty great line, but docked a star because I decided midway through the crux upper section that I really don't like fist jamming.
On the far right side of Fin, about 50 meters past Virgin Voyage. Like most corners on Fin, this faces right; it goes into the shade around noon in the spring.
The first 30' feet or so is pretty easy and can be protected w/ 3 Friends or gold Camalots. After that it's a question of how many 3.5 F / Blue C you need/want to protect 100', 50' or so of which are continuously overhanging; I believe I had seven but I also had one #4 Friend and three #3.5 Camalots. I would have preferred to have more of the 3F / Blue C sizes. I'm usually good at walking larger pieces but it found doing so difficult on the overhanging section of this climb.
The anchor is not so great: one modern bolt w/ some slings through it and a vintage Hong bolt with a cheesy home made hanger and a single sling girth hitched through the sharp-edged eye.
Our 70M rope was just barely long enough to rap with about 5' of down climbing.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2008
SICK ROUTE. That roof is so damn hard. Blue camalot up to rattly fists through 50 feet of overhang. Strenuous to say the least.
|By Matt Pesce|
From: moab, ut.
Jun 22, 2013