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A prime example of how a thorough cleaning transformed a dirty, neglected line into a classic climb. The fully scrubbed first pitch of this route now easily deserves two stars, as the climbing is continuously high quality, varied, and well protected. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)
Pitch 1 Start climbing in the obvious right-facing dihedral system. Great climbing up this corner leads to a rest below the undercling roof. Move up to the roof, then out right around it to a series of small right-facing corners that are ascended back left (an anchor station can be utilized at 100 feet if not continuing on to the second pitch) to the large belay ledge and gear anchors. 5.10, pro to 3, 115 feet.
Variation 1 From the first obvious rest ledge at about 50 feet up the dihedral, it is possible to traverse over to the right to the obvious hanging, left-facing corner. Interesting moves with reasonable protection lead to the right end of the undercling roof (5.10) and back on the original line to the belay ledge.
Variation 2 (Highly recommended) When directly below the prominent undercling roof, look for a fixed pin in the black water-stained rock straight above. Climb straight up through the roof, and into the cracks above, rejoining the original line where it traverses back left. This direct variation is no harder than the original route, and is a more aesthetic line (with much less rope-drag) than the original.
Pitch 2 The original 2nd pitch requires a belay shift to the far left end of the belay ledge. Immediately above the left end of the ledge is a right-leaning finger crack. Climb this, step left to another thin crack, and up to a stance below a small roof. From here either move left and up (easier) or continue up and right, up steeper rock, and on to the anchors at the top. 5.10-, pro to 2, 70 feet.
Variation (Highly recommended) At the top of the first pitch, before moving all the way left and onto the grassy belay ledge, stop on the first good pedestal below a good right-leaning protection crack and belay there. The crack and face above are pitch 2 of Spew Feces, and this 5.10 recommended option provides a more difficult and straight up line than the original route. With proper runnering to reduce rope drag, this can be lead as one long, sustained pitch, and when done this way is, Few Feces 5.10 ***.
Pro to 3", anchors.
See Squeezing the Lemmon.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 22, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I've led both the original (twice!), and "variation #2," and Scott is right that the latter is definitely better. However, I've found that it's easy to get sucked into the original, because the climbing and pro is a bit more obvious in the undercling out right. If you end up doing this, it's still very worthwhile, but I would recommend just using the anchor out right instead of cutting back left. You might feel like a bit of a chump for going 'off route', but the rope drag after coming out from the slot/roof is crippling even with slinging almost everything long. Just be sure to place a good piece for your second.