The Feudal Wall is one of the larger formations in Indian Cove that offers a number of lengthy, quality moderates (mostly cracks) as well as quick and easy access. The wall is split at mid-height by a large ledge system allowing for topropes to be easily set on the lower half, as well as providing a convenient way down which makes the area quite popular with large crowds of topropers. Many climbs continue to the top of the formation but most suffer from some degree of loose and/or grainy rock (exceptions do exist).
Moving from the climbers left to right, some fun climbs include the three Duchess climbs (Duchess Left, 5.4; Duchess, 5.6; and Duchess Right, 5.7) -- especially the right, which is a classic 5.7 off-width. The Castrum (5.10a) is a classic thin crack/tips layback. The start of Crown Jewels is (in my opinion) a bit of a sandbag at 5.7, but this is one of the climbs that remains fun all the way to the top. Over at the right end of the formation, The Mikado (5.6) is a fun route, and don't miss the chance to hang a top-rope and take a shot at the California Crack (5.11a). One notable climb on the upper level, near the left-hand side of the formation is La Reina (5.9) a beautiful right-facing dihedral with a splitter handcrack in the back.
Finally, the Feudal Wall offers an afternoon's worth of fourth and easy fifth scrambling/free-soloing which is excellent for keeping the pulse rate up or keeping the friends occupied while you get some more climbing in.
The Feudal Wall is the next to last wall you pass (it's just before the Short Wall) as you follow the Indian Cove Road to the southeast through the family campsites and out towards Rattlesnake Canyon. Parking is available right at the base of the rock, so the approach is minimal, at the most.
This fun route climbs a slab to slightly overhung face past 5 bolts to anchors although originally done with only 4 bolts, which made the crux more thrilling. Years later (late 1990's) the FA party added the topmost bolt to make the climb better protected and more accessible for all. It is a little runout at the start and the rating might even be a little sandbag, but hey you're at Josh -- what did you expect? ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA