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Feudal Beerlords 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Todd Vogel, Fred Lifton & Chris Iverson, 1989
Season: All
Page Views: 1,908
Submitted By: AWinters on Feb 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: 'Feudal Beerlords' 5.10


The great finger and handcrack on and just left of the arete.

Start off with a nice ergonomic and rounded finger crack to multiple rests on good face holds. Continue up the gradually widening crack with great jams, into wide hands with good features in the back. After the crack climb past 3 bolts on the arete to the anchor.

The crux is perhaps the first 20 feet, then it mellows out...

Easily top-roped from the 'Nirvana' anchors. It would be a shame to climb 'Nirvana' and not try it.


Left-side of the Social Platform, just right of 'Nirvana'.


Standard rack to 4".

Photos of Feudal Beerlords Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: As noted, it's straight in straightforward after t...
As noted, it's straight in straightforward after t...

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By Jonathan Howland
Apr 16, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Lewis's guide gives this a 10d; the previous edition had it at 10c. I'll call it hard 5.10 through the first twenty feet, not .10b per this posting, and in any case v. worthy. The route protects well on all cams (v. small through 2.5 inches) + draws for the three bolts on the arete.
By Greg Barnes
Oct 27, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This went back and forth between 10d and 10c in previous Gorge guides. I go with 10d - only a few moves, but off balance and powerful. Easier for big fingers.
By 213blc
Apr 3, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very fun climb. The anchors, however, are in dreadful need of Mussy hooks or some sort of new setup (one cold shut is loose and very worn, the other is worn). Be careful!
By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

How strong are open shuts that are worn almost half through? Might be rolling the dice on this one.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 28, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Thanks Dan!

Rock Climbing Photo: What's wrong with those old ones?
What's wrong with those old ones?

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