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The Diamond
Routes Sorted
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Auntie M T 
Festoon T 
Hatari  T 
Psycho Bitch S 
Ruby Shoes T 
Secret Lover T 
Tik Tok T 
Toto T 
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 
True Grit T 
Trusting Aborigines  S 
Unknown T 

Festoon 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Garvey & Jim Sweeney 1987, Direct finish Evan Skine 1999
Page Views: 687
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jul 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Adrienne Kentner climbing Festooned 5.9+

Description 

An excellent single-pitch route which requires skill at placing small fiddly gear and a cool head to succeed. Slightly uphill and left of Ruby Shoes (5.7) is this attractive thin flake/seam with an obvious "tongue" sticking out at the 20' mark. Climb up the lieback flake as it seams out and becomes a right-facing corner at the top. Two bolts protect the upper corner and topout onto a mossy vegetated ledge. Rappel from two nice ASCA ring bolts towards the left end of the ledge.

Some additional notes: the original FA party climbed up the flake and then traversed off left below the (now bolted) corner. The bolted direct finish was added at a later date, and upped the grade from 5.9 to 5.10-. The direct finish is often referred to "Grit Yer Teeth"

Protection 

Thin. A set of TCUs from micro to 1", many small nuts (offset brass wouldn't go unused), 2 bolts, 2 bolt rap anchor.


Photos of Festoon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: About to commit to the Festoon flake.
BETA PHOTO: About to commit to the Festoon flake.

Comments on Festoon Add Comment
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By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Small gear is nice on this, but you can climb it on mostly medium gear, a couple smaller stoppers are nice, but you don't need to have brassies.
By Mat Brunton
Jun 2, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Great route!
By Mat Brunton
Jun 24, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This route offers decent protection. Some bomber placements for BD nuts in the 4-6 range. Decent placements for BD X4 cams in the .1-.5 range. Bolted, direct finish is definitely the crux.

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