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Festoon T 
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Toto T 

Festoon 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Garvey & Jim Sweeney 1987, Direct finish Evan Skine 1999
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jul 1, 2013

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Adrienne Kentner climbing Festooned 5.9+

Description 

An excellent single-pitch route which requires skill at placing small fiddly gear and a cool head to succeed. Slightly uphill and left of Ruby Shoes (5.7) is this attractive thin flake/seam with an obvious "tongue" sticking out at the 20' mark. Climb up the lieback flake as it seams out and becomes a right-facing corner at the top. Two bolts protect the upper corner and topout onto a mossy vegetated ledge. Rappel from two nice ASCA ring bolts towards the left end of the ledge.

Some additional notes: the original FA party climbed up the flake and then traversed off left below the (now bolted) corner. The bolted direct finish was added at a later date, and upped the grade from 5.9 to 5.10-. The direct finish is often referred to "Grit Yer Teeth"

Protection 

Thin. A set of TCUs from micro to 1", many small nuts (offset brass wouldn't go unused), 2 bolts, 2 bolt rap anchor.


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By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Small gear is nice on this, but you can climb it on mostly medium gear, a couple smaller stoppers are nice, but you don't need to have brassies.