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The Diamond
Routes Sorted
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Festoon T 
Hatari  T 
Psycho Bitch S 
Ruby Shoes T 
Secret Lover T 
Tik Tok T 
Toto T 
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 
Trusting Aborigines  S 
Unknown T 


YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Garvey & Jim Sweeney 1987, Direct finish Evan Skine 1999
Page Views: 567
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jul 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Adrienne Kentner climbing Festooned 5.9+


An excellent single-pitch route which requires skill at placing small fiddly gear and a cool head to succeed. Slightly uphill and left of Ruby Shoes (5.7) is this attractive thin flake/seam with an obvious "tongue" sticking out at the 20' mark. Climb up the lieback flake as it seams out and becomes a right-facing corner at the top. Two bolts protect the upper corner and topout onto a mossy vegetated ledge. Rappel from two nice ASCA ring bolts towards the left end of the ledge.

Some additional notes: the original FA party climbed up the flake and then traversed off left below the (now bolted) corner. The bolted direct finish was added at a later date, and upped the grade from 5.9 to 5.10-. The direct finish is often referred to "Grit Yer Teeth"


Thin. A set of TCUs from micro to 1", many small nuts (offset brass wouldn't go unused), 2 bolts, 2 bolt rap anchor.

Photos of Festoon Slideshow Add Photo
About to commit to the Festoon flake.
BETA PHOTO: About to commit to the Festoon flake.

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By Dommelhiemer
From: Anchorage
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Small gear is nice on this, but you can climb it on mostly medium gear, a couple smaller stoppers are nice, but you don't need to have brassies.
By Mat Brunton
Jun 2, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route. Protected mostly with small BD X4 cams and stoppers. Really nice reaching that first bolt. Second bolt a relief for the somewhat dirty and not-so-positive holds topping out on to large belay ledge. While this route may stay consistently more difficult (and might not offer as good pro), some nearby 5.9+ have a harder crux.
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