Fessura Oliva  5.10b

65 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Oliva 1979 Season:  hot in the sun late fall, winter, early spring Submitted By:  Brian in SLC on Apr 6, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Second pitch offwidth of Fessura Oliva

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

A bit tired of crimps and finger pockets? This route will cure ya!

P1: A stout start, slightly overhanging but with an amazing and secure hand jam or two. Follow the left-curing crack with initially poor feet, a few awkward, uncomfy moves, then face climb up to the grove of trees for some rest in the shade.

P2: Yeah, its wide. Bolts on the face to the right. Can be liebacked a bit, insecurely. Offwidth technique comes in handy. Fairly steep and strenuous.

When the crack rolls over a bit, step right and use thin crack and face features to finish pitch.

Unique, physical and fun. A nice break from the standard pocket pulls!

Location 

Located on the right side of the orange scoop to the right of the crag i.d. plaque.

Obvious left curving steep crack start, to tree'd belay station. Second pitch wide crack hard to discern from below.

Protection 

Set of quickdraws and a couple of slings for the trees.

Photos of Fessura Oliva Slideshow

Add Photo

Steep start of Fessura Oliva's first pitch	Climbing up to the first pitch belay station on Fe...	Get in that thing...bonus points for a no-shirt as...
Escape from the wide crack on Fessura Oliva	Rappelling Fessura Oliva's first pitch showoing ro...