Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), Grade III
FA: Italian Military 2007
Page Views: 889 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Dec 3, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description Suggest change

This relatively new Ferrata has a feature that makes it “safer” consisting of reinforced bolts and rubber cones on the difficult sections that reduce the chance of carabiner breaking in case of an accidental fall. Also the cable-to-rock attachment posts tend to be placed closer together on difficult sections to reduce impact in case a climber falls.

It is considered to be of medium difficulty on the Via Ferrata rating scale. It ascends the southwest face of the Col Dei Bos a few hundred meters to the left of the classic South Arete “Alvera” mountaineering route mentioned on this website. The start of the route is the most difficult portion of the ascent, with the cable heading basically up the arête on the left side of the south face. The cable continues through easier scrambling and three more steep-ish climbing sections to a great viewpoint south below the (undramatic) summit.

Lots of loose rock (like most Dolomites VF), so don't forget your helmet.

Rock climbers who normally climb non-VF routes might be interested to know that the route can be climbed all "free" at around 5.7+ difficulty. Lots of fun positive handholds. Also lots of well-polished footholds if climb always within range of clipping to the VF cable for protection.

Location Suggest change

Location/Approach: From Cortina d’Ampezzo drive towards Passo Falzarego on the SS48 road. Park by bar ristorante “Da Strobel” (on the N side of the road) about 1.1 km E below the pass.

Seems that the approach hike has changed since the 2018 edition of the English-language print guidebook. This is the straightforward way as of September 2019:
Find the trailhead signpost (GPS latitude longitude approx N46.5203 E12.0190) at the NE side of parking lot for Bar Ristorante Strobel. Follow the obvious trail NE (aiming roughly at Col dei Bos) about 0.25 mile uphill soon crossing a bridge, then a big zig-zag to reach the old military road at (N46.5236 E12.0227). Walk Right (E) about 325 ft gentle on road to reach WWI ruins (including hospital). Soon around (N46.5240 E12.0245) head Left off road NE about 650 ft up on well-used trail across wide gully with a stream crossing, then zig-zag up steep slope to reach bottom start of VF cable around (N46.5255 E12.0269), roughly at the base of the SW ridge of the Col dei Bos hill.
Effort uphill +450 ft vertical over 0.5 mile distance.

Descent:
The shortest way down (but slippery) is to follow the obvious track left (west) through meadows then scree and past some WWI remains to a path than drops down into the valley between Col dei Bos and Torri del Falzarego peaks. The path drops quickly (1 hour or so) down to the route base and then you can trace your approach back to the car.

An alternate descent if you wish to go over by Tofana massif would be to go right towards Tofana dropping over the east side of Col dei Bos, then down any number of paths back to the military road and then turn right, walk along the road through a tunnel and eventually back to the parking area.

For an even better hike, head left (NW) to reach the pass (N46.5298 E12.0270) between Torri Falzarego and Col dei Bos, but hike all the way up to the top station of the Lagazuoi cable car (N46.5277 E12.0090) by the Rifugio Lagazuoi hut. Follow the path contouring around the north side of Torre Falzarego NW then W to reach paint-marked trail with a nice view to the Lagazuoi lift top station. Next hike SW up on this a short ways to reach the junction by the pass Forcella Travenances (N46.5306 E12.0195) - (from here could instead head N on main trail toward the (more difficult) Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli).  Next up main trail W to another pass (N46.5305 E12.0130), finally SW with lots of switchbacks to reach the Lagazuoi cable car top station, next to the Rifugio Lagazuoi hut.
Those wanting to minimize downhill impact on knee and ankle joints could ride down in the Lagazuoi cable car -- finish with easy 0.5 mile walk / run E down main road back to start Parking. Or a more interesting way down . . .

From here descend to just to the east of the refugio, directly under the cable car and pick up the Galerie di Lagazuoi tunnel. This is a steep cabled tunnel/Ferrata (excavated during the first world war) through the entire mountain for 1 km or more that descends steeply through the mountain and has many interesting WWI artifacts (see description of this ferrata for more information). You will need a headlamp if you choose to do this descent. Once you exit the tunnels, work your way down to the dirt military road and head left back towards the bar and your car.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Ferrata rigging, helmet, gloves

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