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Fern

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Bleeder Boulder 
Factual Boulder 
Fern North 
Nasty Wall 
P.K. Boulder 
Reservation Wall 
Small Wall Boulder 
Rest Day:
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Fern  


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Location: 35.6176, -94.0059 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,009
Administrators: TylerKC, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brett.Roberts on Feb 9, 2012
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Go down Forest Service 1544 Rd. for 1.6 miles. Whe...

Description 

UPDATE (2/15/15)
Jerry has done some amazing work on the Fern website and the Fern guidebook. For completely updated route info including all the new routes, fernclimbing.com

Small climbing area with a beautiful creek running through it. Primitive Camping is allowed in the parking area. But make sure you pack out what you bring in. Most of the climbs here are short, under 50 feet, but there are some good moderates.

Getting There 

From Mulberry/I40(20 min-12.6mile) Take the Mulberry exit (#24) off of I-40 and follow 215 North for about 10 miles. You'll reach the town of Fern. 0.7 miles to an unmarked dirt road on the right (its a pretty well traveled road) Follow this 1.6 miles and hang a right followed by an immediate right at the fork in the road. The parking Area is .3 miles after that. Be careful if you don't have a 4x4 after rains because it can get pretty muddy and there's a few big puddles.

There are two approaches the P.K. Boulder approach and the Standard approach.
PK Boulder approach-this leads you to the PK boulder, Fern North, Small Wall boulder Cowboy Boulder, and Factual Boulder. From the parking area head west a shortways up the trail to the cliff top a short scramble down leads around the north side of the PK Boulder.

Standard approach-Use this to get to the Lesbian Stronghold Boulder, Reservation Wall, Nasty Wall, Bleeder Boulder and Psychadelic Wall. From the parking area hike west on the trail to the cliff top follow the trail parallel to the bluffline east for 2-3 minutes where you'll go right through a narrow corridor that puts you at the bottom of the Bleeder Boulder.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 8.0 miles from here

40 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',8],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',14],['5.11',4],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fern:
Cowboys and Angels   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   Bleeder Boulder
Trail of Fears   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 40'   Reservation Wall
Browse More Classics in Fern

Featured Route For Fern
Climber Chase Webb at the Crux. Photo by Anthony J...

Trail of Fears 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  AR : Fern : Reservation Wall
Probably the best route at Fern. Start just a little right of the first bolt climb up to the ledge for a rest. Hard moves off the ledge lead to a short but steep headwall below the anchors. Make sure your belayer is awake durning the crux to make sure you don't fall of the ledge....[more]   Browse More Classics in AR

Photos of Fern Slideshow Add Photo
This is a rotated view of the right turn from 215 ...
BETA PHOTO: This is a rotated view of the right turn from 215 ...
Fern
Fern
Travel on Forest Service 1544 Rd. for 1.6 miles. A...
BETA PHOTO: Travel on Forest Service 1544 Rd. for 1.6 miles. A...
After travelling down Forest Service 1544 Rd. for ...
BETA PHOTO: After travelling down Forest Service 1544 Rd. for ...

Comments on Fern Add Comment
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By Drew Nevius
From: Oklahoma
Sep 16, 2012
After you pass Fern (the town) and AR-215 veers right, you will pass the Fern Assembly of God and then a tall A-frame house on the right side of the road. Just after that, the "unmarked dirt road" you will take on the right is the national forest road 1544. It is the first dirt road turn after you pass Hummingbird Rd on the right. Once you turn right onto it, you should see a brown post on the right side of the road with "1544" vertically in white numbers.
By Henri Alexander
9 hours ago
Supplemental to Drew's directions from 2012:
This place is quite hard to find at night if you've never been here before. There is no cell service and therefore no GPS. Check out the pictures I added in the pictures section. The directions by Drew and on the fernclimbing website will make a lot more sense.

You can camp here! Check out fernclimbing.com for the deets.

Weather: The location makes this place hard to climb if it rained in the past couple days. Moss grows easily here due to a nearby water source. Check the forecast, be safe and may the Schwartz be with you.
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