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Fern North 
P.K. Boulder 
Reservation Wall 
Small Wall Boulder 

Fern 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Brett.Roberts on Feb 9, 2012

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Cosmic Condom

Description 

Small climbing area with a beautiful creek running through it. Primitive Camping is allowed in the parking area. But make sure you pack out what you bring in. Most of the climbs here are short, under 50 feet, but there are some good moderates.


Getting There 

From Mulberry/I40(20 min-12.6mile) Take the Mulberry exit (#24) off of I-40 and follow 215 North for about 10 miles. You'll reach the town of Fern. 0.7 miles to an unmarked dirt road on the right (its a pretty well traveled road) Follow this 1.6 miles and hang a right followed by an immediate right at the fork in the road. The parking Area is .3 miles after that. Be careful if you don't have a 4x4 after rains because it can get pretty muddy and there's a few big puddles.

There are two approaches the P.K. Boulder approach and the Standard approach.
PK Boulder approach-this leads you to the PK boulder, Fern North, Small Wall boulder Cowboy Boulder, and Factual Boulder. From the parking area head west a shortways up the trail to the cliff top a short scramble down leads around the north side of the PK Boulder.

Standard approach-Use this to get to the Lesbian Stronghold Boulder, Reservation Wall, Nasty Wall, Bleeder Boulder and Psychadelic Wall. From the parking area hike west on the trail to the cliff top follow the trail parallel to the bluffline east for 2-3 minutes where you'll go right through a narrow corridor that puts you at the bottom of the Bleeder Boulder.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fern:
Reservation Crack   5.6     Trad, 40 feet   Reservation Wall
Easy Street   5.7     Sport, 30 feet   P.K. Boulder
A Price is Right   5.7     Trad, 25 feet   Fern North
Faith Healer   5.8     Sport, 25 feet   Small Wall Boulder
Lipid Lover   5.8     Sport, 20 feet   Fern North
Satellite   5.10a     Sport, 30 feet   Fern North
Dali Automatic   5.10a     Sport, 25 feet   Small Wall Boulder
Geronimo's Revenge   5.10b     Sport, 15 feet   P.K. Boulder
The Stool   5.10b     Sport, 40 feet   Reservation Wall
Cosmic Cowboy   5.11a     Sport, 35 feet   Fern North
Apocalypse Daydream Project   5.11a     Sport, 20 feet   Small Wall Boulder
Trail of Fears   5.11c     Sport, 40 feet   Reservation Wall
War Apache   5.12b     Sport, 40 feet   Reservation Wall
Browse More Classics in Fern

Featured Route For Fern
Cosmic Condom

Cosmic Condom 5.5  AR : Fern : Small Wall Boulder
Great for a first time leader. Super juggy and has a few good ledges to rest on....[more]   Browse More Classics in AR


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By Drew Nevius
From: Oklahoma
Sep 16, 2012

After you pass Fern (the town), you will pass the Fern Assembly of God and then a tall A-frame house on the right side of the road. Just after that, the "unmarked dirt road" you will take on the right is the national forest road 1544. Once you turn right onto it, you should see a brown post on the right side of the road with "1544" vertically in white numbers.