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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
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> Fern Buttress
> 9a) Fern Creek Falls
Fern Creek Direct
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Phil Heller, Alex Karr 1986 |
Page Views: | 1,499 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Phil lip on Oct 13, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Despite its relatively diminutive height and lack of top anchor, this route is absolutely worth the effort! There's nothing but perfect stone and fun moves the entire way.
Start on the left side of the buttress at a seam. The seam is very shallow at the start but it can be protected with a little fiddling (gear gets better as you go). Make some unique technical moves up the seam to gain some great jugs below a slight bulge. Make a long reach out of the bulge, moving left to the arete. Follow good horizontals up the airy arete and top out on a mossy ledge with a nice-sized tree.
Start on the left side of the buttress at a seam. The seam is very shallow at the start but it can be protected with a little fiddling (gear gets better as you go). Make some unique technical moves up the seam to gain some great jugs below a slight bulge. Make a long reach out of the bulge, moving left to the arete. Follow good horizontals up the airy arete and top out on a mossy ledge with a nice-sized tree.
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